Nori

Arched windows frame the Île de Batz across the bay, and the stone fireplace does the rest of the heavy lifting inside this one-Michelin-star dining room at Hôtel Le Brittany. The chef's Breton seafood leans on the finest local produce, then takes unexpected detours into Japanese flavor combinations, a detail explained by his wife and sous-chef, both Japanese. The result is a menu that feels grounded and quietly surprising at once.

One honor, in evidence: