Paolo Griffa al Caffè Nazionale

Paolo Griffa holds a Michelin star in a grand old café on Aosta's main piazza, where the dining room shifts from morning espresso to tasting menus of three, five, or seven courses depending on your appetite. The chef's contemporary Italian cooking leans heavily on vegetables, arranged with the kind of chromatic precision that makes you pause before eating. A pastry counter and serious coffee mean there's a reason to stop in at almost any hour.