Philipp Soldan

The restaurant is named for a sculptor whose wooden figures still decorate the town hall outside, which sets the tone nicely. Down in the vaulted basement of a centuries-old building on the market square, it's a fine dining room that manages to feel chic without feeling stiff. A Michelin-starred set menu moves through five courses, the chef's technique quiet and precise. The wine list is serious. Come Sunday if you'd rather do three courses at lunch.

One honor, in evidence: