Pollen

Set on a golf and hotel estate in the Meuse Valley, this cosy modern French restaurant treats vegetables as the main event, not the afterthought. The chef sources from nearby sustainable farms, then works a single ingredient in several directions at once, roasting, crisping, pressing, saucing. On a clear day the terrace earns its keep. The crowd tends toward the well-heeled and unhurried, which suits the pace of the cooking perfectly.

One honor, in evidence: