Popeye Snack

Down in the underground arcade of Jangmi Sangga, this old-school Korean snack spot has been run by a team of halmoni making the same tteokbokki, kimbap, and fritters for decades. The fried rice, dressed in tteokbokki sauce and perilla seeds with an egg you mix in yourself, is the kind of thing regulars call "the taste of grandma's hands." Fluorescent lights, metal trays, no pretension whatsoever.