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Primo Passo
Italian
The menu runs vertically down the page, which feels right for a basement Italian in Shintomicho where the chef folds dashi and Japanese ingredients into Neapolitan technique. He came up running pasta at a celebrated Naples restaurant before opening this one-star spot on his own terms. The result is a tasting-style dinner built around several small pasta courses, with mud walls and a coffered ceiling setting a mood that's neither Tokyo nor Naples, but somewhere quieter than both.
The awards strongest first
One number, weighted & current 90
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