Ramen Champ

Jiro-style ramen is the calling card here, a Tokyo-born style less famous in the Bay Area than tonkotsu but arguably more interesting, with its shoyu-pork broth running fattier and more rustic, pork fat globules and all. The thick, chewy noodles come from a local craft purveyor, and a fistful of raw chopped garlic goes in to sharpen everything up. This San Jose ramen shop is doing real work diversifying a scene that tends to default to the same few styles.

One honor, in evidence: