Roku

A French counter restaurant where the counter seats exactly six, which is also what the name means, so the math is settled before you sit down. The chef cooks close enough to touch, ferments with koji and miso, and builds dishes around edible wild plants his mother forages in Nagano. His father makes the wooden trays by hand. Dessert belongs to the proprietress. It is an intimate, family-threaded place that feels less like a restaurant than someone's very skilled living room.

Two honors, in evidence: