Sel Gris

The view from the Duinbergen dike is doing a lot of work here, with the North Sea filling the window of this sleek, one-Michelin-star dining room dressed in grey. The chef's cooking leans heavily on what's just outside, mixing delicacy and creativity across a parade of small plates where sauces get serious attention and a fondness for caviar surfaces early and often. Subtle Asian notes and sharp vegetable dishes keep things from drifting into pure luxury cliché.

One honor, in evidence: