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Near King's Cross, this tiny Irish lunch room seats fewer than twenty and takes reservations by landline or postcard, whichever feels less absurd to you. Hugh Corcoran runs it at two sittings a day, cash only, with the wine list stored entirely in the proprietor's head. The cooking is quietly old-fashioned, the kind that makes you wonder when Dublin coddle stopped being on more menus. Eater named it one of London's 38 best restaurants.
The awards strongest first
One number, weighted & current 65
How we scoreThe dishes from the writeups
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