The Best Sushi in São Paulo, by the Record

There's no sign outside, which is either an oversight or a statement, and given what happens inside, it's probably a statement. This is an omakase sushi counter in Pinheiros where a Michelin-starred chef works the bar himself, pressing each nigiri to order and passing it across before the rice loses its warmth. Sit at the counter if you can manage it; the table is fine, but the counter is the point.

1. Michelin Guide 1 Star

A Michelin-starred omakase counter named for the Japanese town in Gunma province with the highest concentration of Brazilian immigrants, which gives you some sense of the story being told here. Sixteen courses built around fish of the day, with select varieties aged in a dedicated maturation cabinet, tuna especially. The chef narrates each piece, explaining provenance, technique, and aging time before it reaches you. Sushi bar or small private room, nothing else to decide.

1. Michelin Guide 1 Star

Edomae sushi in Vila Madalena, made the old way with no concessions to fusion trends. This is a traditional Japanese restaurant where the sushi bar is the obvious center of gravity, and watching the chefs work is half the point. The ingredients speak clearly enough that the menu needs no explaining. There's also a kids' play area, which is either a charming surprise or a sign that the neighborhood families have long since claimed the place as their own.

1. Michelin Guide Selected Restaurant

Ring the doorbell and wait, which sets the tone for everything that follows. This is an intimate omakase sushi counter in Vila Clementino where the chef, a longtime student of Japanese regional cooking, narrates each piece with the kind of detail that makes you feel like the fish has a biography. The counter seats are the point; a table works, but watching the knife work up close is the whole reason you rang that bell.

1. Michelin Guide Selected Restaurant