The Best Places to Eat in 東京都, by the Record

A whole street of monjayaki shops in the old Tsukishima neighborhood, each one built around an iron griddle sunk into the table and a tiny spatula you'll need coaching on. Tokyo's answer to okonomiyaki is runnier, crispier at the edges, and cooked by you, which is either charming or terrifying depending on your confidence. Staff will talk you through it, and a cold beer while you wait for the crust to form makes the learning curve feel pretty reasonable.

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The nikomi offal stew has been simmering in Hatcho miso, sugar, red wine, and bouquet garni for what feels like a century, because it basically has. This old-school Tokyo restaurant in Morishita built its name on that stew, and the kitchen rounds it out with pickles, crudités, anchovy-dressed salads, and seasonal tempura. A short wine list sits alongside the sake and shochu, which is either charming or audacious depending on your mood.

1. Eater The 38 Best Restaurants in Tokyo

1. The Infatuation Where To Eat When You’re Visiting Tokyo

1. Eater The 38 Best Restaurants in Tokyo

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1. The Infatuation The 11 Best Ramen Shops In Tokyo

1. The Infatuation The 11 Best Ramen Shops In Tokyo

1. The Infatuation The 11 Best Ramen Shops In Tokyo

1. The Infatuation The 11 Best Ramen Shops In Tokyo

1. The Infatuation The 11 Best Ramen Shops In Tokyo

Specialty coffee shop perched along the Meguro River, with metro trains sliding past the window often enough that regulars stop noticing them. Behind the bar, the team takes craft seriously enough that baristas reportedly spend two years training before touching the espresso machine. Beautiful ceramics add to the effect. The Instagram crowd has found it, so expect the occasional tripod, but the coffee cuts through the noise.

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1. Asian Coffee Map Best coffee shops for work in Tokyo

1. The Infatuation The 11 Best Ramen Shops In Tokyo