The Best Pizza Near Terroir, by the Record
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Rank 1. Mano a Mano
Neapolitan Pizza
Two wood-fired ovens anchor Mano a Mano, one for Roman-style, one for Neapolitan, and the kitchen treats the difference as a friendly argument worth having nightly. Herringbone floors, round marble tables, and Italian cinema posters give the room an easy elegance. The Neapolitan dough gets a long, slow rise before it meets the fire; the Roman side keeps things crispier and flatter. A solid Italian-Portuguese wine list and tiramisu round things out.
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Rank 2. Lupita Pizzaria
Neapolitan Pizza
A no-reservations pizzeria in Cais do Sodré where the dough ferments for two days and the crust arrives at the table properly airy and charred. The room is small with vintage stucco ceilings and a few tables outside, and a queue out front is the normal state of affairs. The combinations lean creative, the natural wines are short-listed but sensible, and the only dessert is a salted caramel cheesecake. Come prepared to wait.
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A wood-fired oven tiled in gold mosaic anchors the open kitchen at this Neapolitan pizza restaurant near central Lisbon. The room is small and warm, with hand-painted Sicilian ceramics on the walls and a note on the table gently asking you to keep your voice down, which tells you everything. The dough ferments for around 36 hours before hitting high heat, producing a light, airy crust. It ranks ninth in Europe on 50 Top Pizza.
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A Neapolitan pizzeria that moved into a 1955 bakery in Saldanha and kept the tall chimney and wood-fired oven, which now does exactly what you'd hope. The room is clean and unfussy, white walls and dark wood, with stacked firewood doing double duty as decor. The house signature is the Parziale, half pizza and half calzone, and the dough is the light, blistered Neapolitan style. Italian and Portuguese wines, and a chocolate panna cotta to close.
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Rank 5. Vela Latina
Neapolitan Pizza
The terrace looks straight out over the Tagus, which is a fine place to eat a wood-fired Neapolitan pizza. Vela Latina sits in the small riverside village of Sarilhos Pequenos, next to the local sailing club, and leans into the nautical theme with white-and-blue walls and vintage yacht photographs. The dough gets a long ferment and a hot oven, and the crust comes out airy with those charred leopard spots. Named among 50 Top Pizza Europe's Excellent Pizzerias.