Al Cambio

Parmigiano and mortadella turn up in nearly every corner of the menu here, which tells you everything about where this modern trattoria stands. The team calls their pastas "soups," a nod to old Emilian convention, and the desserts follow the same unambiguous logic. The wine list leans hard into Emilia-Romagna but keeps a surprisingly serious champagne section for when the mood shifts. A Michelin Bib Gourmand, and the bill makes that feel reasonable.

Two honors, in evidence: