Ambrozijn

The bar on the upper floor is shaped like a church organ, which makes sense because Ambrozijn is, in fact, a converted church. The rugged black walls and exposed roof truss keep the drama going at table level, where the chef's table wraps around a fully open kitchen. French technique with some quietly adventurous seasoning comes out of it, and the sauces in particular draw attention. Listed in the Michelin Guide.

Two honors, in evidence: