Ausa

Bread arrives as a course in its own right here, which tells you most of what you need to know about how seriously this all-vegetarian restaurant takes itself. The team, both trained under Niko Romito, runs a tightly focused kitchen in central Isernia where technique does the heavy lifting. Nothing on the plate is decorative; everything earns its place, and the cooking has a clean, unshowy confidence that a lot of meat-forward restaurants would envy.

Two honors, in evidence: