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Cafetería Doña Carmen is a modest neighborhood cafe near the Plaza del Duque that fires up the churros at 7:30 a.m. and does it all again around 5 p.m., when the second wave arrives. Grab a spot at the bar and watch the staff fling out steaming coffee and thick hot chocolate at a pace that suggests personal grudges. There are two styles of churro, airy and traditional or denser and ridged with potato flour, so you'll need to order both and referee.
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One number, weighted & current 65
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