1. Cosme Aguilar's Long Island City kitchen works from a stable repertoire of family recipes, but the restaurant truly announces itself through ambitious plates: branzino cooked "al pastor," braised lamb shank in a spiced broth, mole in every incarnation. The crowds gathering outside understand what the kitchen knows—that restraint and mastery of a few things matter more than constant reinvention.

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    5-48 49th Ave, Queens, NY · Queens
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