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A working vegetable garden fills the back of this canal-side restaurant on the quieter southern stretch of the Naviglio Pavese, where Milan loses its edge. The weekly tasting menu follows whatever the garden and season allow, shaped by a chef who grew up moving between France, the U.K., and the U.S. The crowd leans linen-and-natural-wine, which fits the radical-chic mood perfectly and without apparent irony.
The awards strongest first
One number, weighted & current 65
How we scoreThe dishes from the writeups
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Braised octopus
“Options might include braised octopus with preserved sweet peppers, olives, capers, and fresh chickpea pancake, or kale risotto with sun-dried tomato pesto, sunflower seeds, and lemon.”
Eater -
Kale risotto
“Options might include braised octopus with preserved sweet peppers, olives, capers, and fresh chickpea pancake, or kale risotto with sun-dried tomato pesto, sunflower seeds, and lemon.”
Eater
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