Helen

An indoor grill sits at the center of this Southern New American restaurant in downtown Birmingham, and pretty much everything on the concise menu passes over it at some point. The chef, a James Beard semifinalist, built the place around his grandmother's tradition of cooking for family, which gives the food a specific gravity that farm-to-table concepts usually just borrow. Angel biscuits arrive warm with whipped cane syrup butter, which is the kind of move that makes you forget the rest of the menu exists.

Four honors, in evidence: