La Maadeleine by Benoît Neusy

The dining room's sand-toned minimalism comes from MAArchitects, and the menu follows a similar logic: clean lines with the occasional surprise. Chef Benoît Neusy runs a modern seafood-forward restaurant in Mons where fish and surf-and-turf dishes carry most of the weight. He has a fondness for nudging classics sideways, like a vol-au-vent that arrives with sweetbreads and prawns folded into the familiar filling. Regulars who've been coming for years show no signs of stopping.

One honor, in evidence: