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Fine dining on the Bund that refuses to take itself too seriously, which somehow makes it more impressive. Crimson walls, white tablecloths, gloved service, the whole theater, but the set menu has a genuinely playful streak, each course weirder and more inventive than the last. The concept is a cross-China journey built around umami, and it earns its place on Asia's 50 Best list. The crowd dresses up, orders the wine pairing, and leaves a little confused in the best way.