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Milpero
Mexican
A corn farmer, a milpero, lends the name and the organizing principle to this intimate tasting-menu restaurant where the chef Johnny Curiel builds an 18-course progression around the grain. Expect dishes where a single oyster sits in smoked tomato broth and corn shoyu, or bluefin otoro folds into a flauta with black garlic chile paste. The New York Times put it on their 2026 Restaurant List, which tracks with the ambition on the plate.
The awards strongest first
- The New York Times 2026 · The Restaurant List
One number, weighted & current 67
How we scoreThe dishes from the writeups
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Tamal
“The tamal convenes Hokkaido uni, oja santa oil and Mexican cultured buttermilk.”
The New York Times, 2026 -
Pai Pai oyster
“A single half-shell Pai Pai oyster from Baja lingers in a pool of smoked tomato broth and corn shoyu.”
The New York Times, 2026
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