Sushi Kawashima

A Michelin-starred sushi counter in Nara that quietly rejects the Tokyo playbook. Nigirizushi arrives without wasabi, the better to let the rice and fish speak, and sashimi is dressed with hishio, an ancient koji-and-salt precursor to soy sauce. The chef leans into Nara's own pantry throughout, and the meal closes with persimmon-leaf tea, which turns out to be the calmest possible ending.