Woven by Adam Smith

Installations shaped like a loom hang overhead, and long windows look out over a sweeping country estate, which sets the tone for what Adam Smith is doing here: fine dining that refuses to be precious about it. A Michelin-starred restaurant inside Coworth Park, Woven offers a three-course menu framed by snacks and sweets, threading tasting-menu surprise into a more human-paced evening. The cooking is classical but roams, with a Thai crab snack that disappears in two bites and leaves you wanting a third.

Two honors, in evidence: