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The toppings change by the hour at Gabriele Bonci's pizza al taglio shop near the Vatican Museums, which means the regulars learn to read the trays fast and order without hesitating. Cold-fermented dough, biodynamic produce, and a rotating cast of what's good today; the potato-mozzarella is a near-constant if you need an anchor. There's some seating inside now after a renovation, though the built-in counters out front are still where the action is.
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One number, weighted & current 65
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