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  1. eme

    Peruvian

    Save to a list Write a review On the Way Around

    A Uruguayan couple runs this snug, green-toned creative tasting-menu restaurant tucked into a quiet Marais impasse. The chef came up at Astrid y Gastón and alongside Mauro Colagreco, and the menus show it: blind courses built around acidity and fermentation, spare in presentation but sharp in flavor. No printed menu, no choices, just the kitchen's current thinking, which occasionally nods toward South America. His partner designed the room, and it feels like it.

    The awards strongest first

    One number, weighted & current 86

    How we score

    The dishes from the writeups

    • Pan criollo

      “The best part of the course might have been the deliriously rich pan criollo, a rustic bread glossed with barbecued duck fat, which came with it.”

      The Infatuation
    • Crispy brussels sprouts

      “On a recent visit, the crispy Brussels sprouts mixed with habanero chili pepper and layered in a smoky curry beurre blanc sauce were a winter highlight”

      The Infatuation
    • Pigeon

      “as was the pigeon, served in three parts alongside a caramelized sorrel leaf, roasted sunchoke, and a parsley-parsnip purée arranged like a painter’s palette.”

      The Infatuation

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Eat Score

The score comes from the awards it's won, weighted by who gave them: a Michelin star outweighs a listicle. When you sort by what's nearby, distance changes the order, never the score.

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    Drink Score

    The score comes from the awards it's won, weighted by who gave them: a Michelin star outweighs a listicle. When you sort by what's nearby, distance changes the order, never the score.

      How we score →

      Stay Score

      Four fifths of the score is the awards it's won, weighted by who gave them: a Michelin Key outweighs a listicle. The last fifth is where it is: the ranked places to eat and things to do around it, and how safe the country is. When you sort by what's nearby, distance from you changes the order, never the score.

        How we score →

        Do Score

        The score comes from the awards it's won, weighted by who gave them: a Michelin star outweighs a listicle. When you sort by what's nearby, distance changes the order, never the score.

          How we score →

          Best Place Score

          The Best Place Score rates the area around a point, not any one place. The places are 60% of it: the best of what's within reach, weighed by distance. The setting is the other 40%: how life goes in that country (how people rate their own lives, how long and how well they live, how safe they are) and what it's like right there (the air, and the weather). If the score looks low, we probably haven't found enough critics out here yet.