Noi

Inside the Four Seasons, Noi runs a seasonal tasting menu where the kitchen keeps one foot firmly in Japan and the other in Italy, a combination that sounds like a dare and eats like it was inevitable. Prime Japanese seafood turns up alongside handmade pasta and silky egg custards, the whole thing choreographed with a precision that stops just short of ceremony. The room draws the kind of crowd that books months out and still acts surprised to be there.

Two honors, in evidence: