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Rice cooked in a wide-brimmed hagama pot, seasoned with vinegar until its sourness does the structural work, is the chef's opening argument at this intimate sushi counter in Hiro. Each nigiri is slender and precise, the temperature calibrated to the topping it carries. A hinoki cypress counter and white interior keep things spare and focused. It holds a Michelin star, and the room feels like it knows that quietly.
The awards strongest first
One number, weighted & current 90
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The neighbors closest first
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