The Best Hotels in Tsuruoka

Shigeru Ban designed this low-rise boutique hotel to sit among working rice paddies on the Shonai plain, and the architecture keeps making that point, with corridors and common areas that nod to the geometry of cultivation. Rooms lean into natural light and warm wood. The onsen floats in a saucer-shaped pavilion on the water. The restaurant draws from the surrounding farmland and coast. It's a place built around the idea of watching seasons move slowly, which sounds like a brochure promise until you're actually staring at flooded rice fields.

Every room at this renovated onsen hotel on the Yamagata coast has its own private bath and a direct view of the Sea of Japan, which covers the basics handsomely. The rooms range from tatami-and-cypress traditional to a suite five stories up fitted entirely in white and glass, with one wild card: a room with a copper ceiling inspired by a nearby shrine. The communal stone baths and the town's only natural spring-fed drinking fountain round things out.