L'Initial

Hardwood floors, exposed stone walls, and a beamed ceiling set the tone at this small French restaurant near the Seine in the 5th. The kitchen works squarely in the classical tradition, running glazed sweetbreads with fragrant jus alongside clean, unfussy desserts. In summer, tables spill onto the terrace, and the room fills with the kind of unhurried lunch that Paris does better than anywhere will admit.

One honor, in evidence: