Riad 144

Finding Riad 144 is its own small adventure, through a warren of alleys north of the souk in the Sidi Ben Slimane district until you hit a heavy front door. Inside, the contrast with the medina's chaos is the whole point, and the design commits harder than most riads dare, running from dark and moody to bright and airy across eight rooms. The courtyard, the hammam, the rooftop at sunset, and the traditional Moroccan meals are all present and correct.