Marlene,

Chef Marlene Vieira's Michelin-starred tasting menu restaurant sits in a glass building beside the Lisbon Cruise Terminal, which sounds unpromising until you're inside watching the kitchen from a counter that wraps the entire open range. The menu runs nine or twelve courses, threading Portuguese tradition through occasional detours elsewhere, and cornbread from her grandmother's recipe arrives with every dish. Order meat and someone brings a tray of handcrafted knives to choose from, which is a detail that earns its place.