The Best Seafood Near The Local, by the Record

The smell hits before you sit down: salt air, grill smoke, charred shells, then garlic butter. This is an oyster bar and smokehouse perched on a deck above Tomales Bay, an hour from San Francisco and a world away from it. Raw and grilled oysters from Tomales Bay Oyster Co. are the move, though there are fish tacos and sandwiches too. Deck seating is first come, first served, so arriving early is less a suggestion than a strategy.

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There is no pool, no lake, not even a decorative fountain at this roadside seafood spot off Arnold Drive, which makes the name either a joke or a flex. White walls, a dog-friendly patio, and a long view of the Sonoma hills set the tone for a menu that plays casual but thinks clearly, with a tuna bowl leaning poke and a fried cod sandwich doing polished things to a fast-food classic. The wine list is longer than you'd expect from a place you can bring your dog to.

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Perched right on the edge of Tomales Bay, this casual oyster bar and seafood spot is owned by Hog Island Oyster Co., which means the bivalves on your tray were probably in the water very recently. Freshly shucked oysters are the move, though grilled versions in garlic butter or smoky barbecue sauce give the purists something to argue about. Weekends fill fast, so a reservation beats showing up hopeful after the scenic drive up the coast.

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Hog Island Oyster Company farms its oysters right here on Tomales Bay, which is about as close to the source as you can get without wading in. The retail counter sells those oysters alongside condiments and picnic supplies, so most people just load up and find a spot along the coast. The reservation-only oyster bar adds grilled preparations and small plates for those who'd rather sit. Marine biologists founded it, which explains why the conservation ethos feels less like marketing.

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A family-run crab shop on the Bodega Bay waterfront where the fishermen and the kitchen are basically the same people. Order a crab sandwich or a cup of clam chowder, then take it to the cliffs overlooking the bay, where the wind and the smell of seawater do the rest of the work. Whole cooked crabs to go, too. The San Francisco Chronicle has named it among the best seafood spots in the Bay Area.

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A San Francisco fish market that planted a second flag inside Proof Lab Beer Garden in Mill Valley, where the obvious move after a Marin hike is a fish taco. The fried rockfish comes out of the oil crackling, buried under a carrot habanero salsa that uses sweetness and acid to dial back the heat rather than just announce it. Order at the counter, find a sunny spot, and let the endorphins from the trail and the chile sort themselves out.

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A Burgundy list that a Chronicle wine critic called one of the Bay Area's treasures sits inside a Shandong Chinese restaurant across from UC Berkeley, which tells you most of what you need to know. Concrete walls, wood accents, and a line out the door by opening time. The tea-smoked duck and the double-skin noodle salad are the things regulars order without looking up. Michelin Bib Gourmand.

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A wood-burning hearth anchors the open kitchen at this Michelin-starred seafood restaurant on the Embarcadero, and the live fire finds its way into nearly everything on the plate. The room goes hunter's cabin by way of Nordic design, with Bay Bridge views softening whatever pretension the dark wood and brick might otherwise suggest. The raw bar runs to purple sea urchin and antelope tartare, because apparently the ocean alone wasn't enough of a challenge.

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Pork and duck puffs shaped like little black swans are the opening move at this upscale dim sum house inside Ghirardelli Square, where the room earns its own attention with colored lanterns, tiled murals, and candle tea warmers. Classics come with upgrades: lobster where shrimp usually goes, squid ink in the fried rice. The bay-facing patio fills up fast on Sunday mornings with people who planned ahead, and a few who got lucky.

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A small fish and wine bar from the team behind State Bird Provisions, built around the anchovy in all its salty, versatile glory. The menu wanders from toast loaded with local anchovies and grated tomato to squid stir-fried with kimchi and flat rice noodles, and somehow a vanilla tamarind sundae finished with dried fish lands as dessert. The room is warm and woody, the vibe relaxed enough that the ambition sneaks up on you.

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The autographed headshots of old-school celebrities on the walls set the tone: this is a Fisherman's Wharf seafood restaurant that makes no apologies for being exactly what it is. Families from two hours outside the city have been cycling through for generations, and the wood-paneled bar and white-jacketed servers keep the scene feeling frozen in amber. The clam chowder is generous where it counts, and the cioppino comes in a "Lazy Man's" version with the shellfish already shelled.

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The booths are carved from redwood wine casks, the bar is Hinoki cedar, and the walls are smoothed red clay, so the room itself does a lot of work before the food arrives. Rintaro is an izakaya with a NorCal sensibility, meaning locally caught fish gets the sashimi treatment and the charcoal grill handles skewers with the same seriousness. The covered courtyard, ringed with citrus trees, is among the harder outdoor seats to snag in the city. Michelin Bib Gourmand.

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The Baja-style fish taco is the reason people show up at this casual order-at-the-counter seafood spot in the Outer Sunset. Rockfish comes out of the fryer in a shattering crust, and the carrot habanero salsa is bright and sharp enough to keep things interesting without just torching your tongue. San Francisco Chronicle named them among the best tacos in the Bay Area, and the regulars here behave accordingly.

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The line out the door on Castro is a permanent fixture, not a trend. Anchor is an old-school seafood spot, tiny and unfussy, better suited to two than a crowd, with a menu that stays short so everything on it can be good. The cioppino is the reason regulars never open the menu by the second visit. The Michelin Guide gives it a Bib Gourmand, and the oysters arrive briny enough to make the mignonette feel optional.

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Past the vintage movie posters and through the double doors is an interior courtyard with a back wall that doubles as a 35mm projection screen, metal drive-in speakers lining the walls. It's a Californian restaurant where you can turn the sound up for dinner-and-a-movie or down to coo over anchovy-stuffed olives. Outdoor heaters handle the Mission fog. A James Beard semifinalist for Outstanding Restaurant.

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The facade is papered with photos of the original owner posing with Jackie Chan, Emeril Lagasse, and Jacques Pépin, which tells you most of what you need to know. This old-school Hong Kong seafood spot in Chinatown has been around forever and draws a late-night crowd that arrives hungry and slightly chaotic. The wok runs hot, the garlic-fried prawns arrive crunchy to the heads, and the salt-and-pepper calamari is what you order when the evening needs a proper ending.

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The fish is in there somewhere, buried under a brick-red avalanche of dried chiles you have to ladle aside to find it. This Chinatown Sichuan restaurant is famous for that má-là one-two punch, the numbing tingle of peppercorns chasing the heat of the peppers, and the hour-long wait out front suggests the neighborhood has opinions about it. When Dungeness crab is in season, it arrives stir-fried with salted egg yolk.

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Cash only, no website, a line down Polk Street, and they open at eight in the morning if you'd rather eat crab than sleep. Swan is an old-school seafood counter, marble-topped and tight on stools, where the Dungeness arrives cracked and the raw bar runs to sea urchin when they have it. The noise is mostly shells and sourdough. San Francisco Chronicle calls it a classic for a reason, but the line will convince you faster.

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The oysters come straight from Hog Island's Tomales Bay farm, and that short supply chain shows in every platter. This easygoing seafood counter in the Ferry Building draws lines of locals and tourists alike for sweet, cold bivalves with all the classic accompaniments, plus Manila clam chowder and a hearty seafood stew. The Bay views from the patio don't hurt. Go early or go patient.

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A cioppino so loaded with Dungeness crab, mussels, scallops, and clams that the bowl barely closes is the reason most people show up to this old-school North Beach seafood house. The parklet on Green Street buzzes like the neighborhood's living room, and the Boston clam chowder travels home in quart containers for those who plan ahead. The San Francisco Chronicle named it among the Bay Area's top seafood restaurants.

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The dining room holds enough live-seafood tanks that you half expect a guided tour, but R&G Lounge is a Chinatown banquet-style restaurant where the point is the occasion. Dungeness crab fried in salt and pepper, black cod baked to the texture of soft butter, geoduck sliced thin for sashimi. The seafood swims until you order it, which settles the freshness question before it's even asked.

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The paper butter cover stamped with a cursive "S" tells you everything about Sam's Grill, a classic San Francisco seafood grill that has been around forever. Rows of coat hooks line the walls from an era when men wore hats, and the curtained back booths suggest generations of cioppino-fueled lunch intrigue. Tuxedoed servers deliver oysters Rockefeller to regulars who never need the menu. Weekday lunch is the move; dinner is largely theoretical.

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The shrimp salad with avocado and grapefruit supremes has been on the menu since the Carter administration, and it still draws a crowd. This old-school seafood restaurant near Davies Symphony Hall has been serving the pre-concert set since forever, with sustainable fish prepared simply and without ceremony. Curtain times mean the kitchen moves, so you can eat well and still make it to your seat.

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Bottarga grated over fresh spaghetti is as close to a signature as this intimate Noe Valley Sardinian restaurant gets, though dried tuna heart shaved over fusilli gives it a run. The menu is concise, written partly in Sard, and offers a cash discount at the bottom. A neighborhood regular bought the place specifically to keep it exactly as it was, which is either very reassuring or a little telling about how attached people get.

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The chef grows his own peppers for the ceviche, which tells you something about how seriously this Rockridge Peruvian restaurant takes its headlining dish. Each one arrives layered with fried corn, seaweed, and fish that's been marinated into something vivid and fiery. The chicharron and shrimp chupe hold their own as follow-ups, and the sake pisco sour is a quiet argument for rethinking a classic. Snug room, wood accents, a small parklet outside.

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A former pop-up that found a permanent home inside Au Lounge in downtown Oakland, Chef Smelly's draws on Creole family recipes to put out Cajun-spiced seafood and soul food. Garlicky Dungeness crab and blackened shrimp anchor the menu, and the platters run large enough to qualify as a commitment. The San Francisco Chronicle named it among the Bay Area's top seafood spots. Dress accordingly: this is crab-cracking, garlic-breath, no-apologies territory.

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Part seafood counter, part fish market, Billingsgate sits in Noe Valley doing two things quietly well. The poke draws the most attention, ahi tuna kept minimal with soy and chile flakes, best ordered alongside sushi rice, seaweed, and avocado. The Spanish tomato toast is worth the detour too, anchovies and jamón ibérico on crisped bread that arrives already a little aggressive and rewards collapsing into a sandwich.

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