Monday, August 31, 2026

The Best Sushi Near Marché Moderne, by the Record

  1. A Michelin-starred omakase counter tucked into a Laguna Beach strip mall, which is either a joke or a lesson in not judging by the parking lot. Chef Jordan Nakasone runs two seatings a night, and the menu moves between precise, traditional nigiri and kitchen courses with a looser, more playful hand. Service is the kind that's present without being felt. The room is quiet, the pacing deliberate, and the whole thing lands closer to ceremony than dinner.


  2. An upstairs omakase spot above Pacific Coast Highway where the fish comes from Japan and the menu follows the seasons like it has somewhere to be. The kaiseki-style progression moves from delicate cold bites through sashimi and nigiri to dessert, each course composed with the kind of precision that makes you slow down mid-bite. Newport Beach casual this is not, but the room is chic without being stiff about it.


  3. Ten seats tucked into the back corner of a Costa Mesa shopping mall, which sounds like a punchline until you're actually sitting at the counter. Hana re runs a leisurely omakase that moves through composed dishes and delicate nigiri with the kind of unhurried calm that makes the parking lot outside feel very far away. The sake list gives you something to think about between courses.


  4. Distressed wood and exposed brick give this intimate Santa Ana sushi counter the feel of a tavern that took a sharp left turn into Japan. Chef Gino Choi runs an omakase where the mood is warm and unhurried, and the courses keep pace with his evident enthusiasm for the form. The Michelin Guide has it listed. Tucked into a quiet stretch of downtown, it draws the kind of crowd that drives past the freeway exits everyone else takes.


  5. The handwritten menu changes nightly, which tells you almost everything about how seriously this strip-mall sushi counter takes itself. Tucked into an unremarkable Garden Grove plaza, Taira runs as both omakase and izakaya à la carte, so you can commit fully or just graze. The Michelin Guide picked it up, and the warm, personal hospitality from the team makes the modest room feel like considerably more than its address suggests.


  6. Lanterns of every shape crowd the ceiling of this intimate sushi shop tucked into an open-air strip mall in Fullerton, which is either the last thing you'd expect or exactly the kind of setup that delivers. The menu is short, with daily specials filling the gaps, and the nigiri and sashimi are where the kitchen is clearly most at ease. The rolls get their own dedicated section too, if that's your move.


  7. Rank 7. Sushi Nikkei

    Nikkei Sushi


  8. Omakase in a Rowland Heights strip mall, and the price point will make you do a double-take. Sushi Yuen runs a tight, focused counter where most nigiri comes imported from Japan and the kitchen opens with seasonal courses that punch well above the room's modest surroundings. Lunch is walk-ins only and draws a devoted crowd. The Michelin Guide has had its eye on the place, which should settle any doubts the parking lot raises.


  9. Rank 9. Sushi Sonagi

    Omakase Sushi

    Eight seats, weekends only, two seatings a night: Sushi Sonagi runs on its own terms, and regulars plan weeks out to keep them. The omakase here comes from a second-generation sushi chef working a deeply personal menu, where female snow crab arrives in a stone pot, gets pressed into a crispy crust at the table, and then disappears fast. The Michelin Guide has had its eye on this Gardena counter, and the room fills accordingly.


  10. A private counter hidden inside a sister restaurant, with one seating a night and a handful of seats that disappear the moment reservations open. Chef Yasuhiro Hirano's omakase leans on aged fish and unexpected pairings, producing nigiri and small courses that feel unlike what more familiar names are doing across town. It holds a Michelin star, and the Los Angeles Times put it among the city's best.


  11. Finding Sushi Kaneyoshi, tucked into a basement of Little Tokyo, is half the evening. Once you locate it, the counter is serene and minimalist in the way that signals a serious omakase, and Chef Yoshiyuki Inoue fires a Michelin star from behind it. He throws pottery himself, and some of that handmade ceramics holds the courses. Every detail gets this treatment, down to the miso soup you'd normally ignore.


  12. Rank 12. Matsu

    Modern Sushi



  13. The counter runs the show at this handroll shop on East 3rd Street, a stretch that's become one of the better reasons to venture east of downtown. The room is dark and pared-down, the kind of place that hums without trying. The menu skips the usual handroll playbook, leaning into combinations that read strange on paper and make sense in your hands. Regulars fill that counter fast, so arriving early is its own form of planning.


  14. Fish flies in from Japan twice a week, and regulars have quietly done the math: Friday is the move. This casual sushi shop in an Arcadia strip mall runs more like a busy Tokyo lunch counter than a hushed omakase temple, with a line at the door, servers moving fast, and chefs who don't waste motion. The nigiri rice is notably generous and soft. Counter or table, omakase or a la carte, the energy is the same.


  15. Rank 16. Bar Sawa

    Edomae Sushi

    Finding Bar Sawa involves exterior stairs, a second-floor lobby, a glass door, and an elevator down to the B level, which is either a great story or a reason to arrive early. Once inside, it's a sleek, intimate edomae omakase counter where fish comes largely from Japan and nigiri is finished with nothing more than a brush of nikiri and a touch of yuzu kosho. The kitchen can play it straight or get a little loose, and the cocktail pairing keeps pace.


  16. A third-floor omakase counter tucked into Weller Court in Little Tokyo, where the sardine roll, wrapped in pickled daikon with ginger and shiso, gives you a sense of how the chef thinks. Two seatings run nightly, one personally helmed by the chef himself. Lunch omakase lands considerably easier on the wallet if dinner feels steep. The Michelin Guide has taken notice, and the regulars already act like they found it first.


  17. Rank 18. Q Sushi

    Omakase Sushi

    The tamago arrives last, soft and barely sweet, and somehow the whole meal makes sense. This is an omakase sushi counter downtown where chef Hiroyuki Naruke works through Edomae-style courses with an almost monastic calm, preparing and placing every piece himself. The room is quiet in a way that feels deliberate, and the pacing is unhurried enough that you notice each cut. A focused, intimate way to spend an evening.


  18. Chef Morihiro Onodera mills his own rice and throws his own ceramics, which tells you most of what you need to know about how this omakase operates. It follows a cha-kaiseki structure, composed dishes first, then nigiri, with seafood flown in from Japan. The handmade bowls and plates are his, which gives the counter a quietly personal feeling that most sushi rooms charge twice as much to approximate. A Michelin star.


  19. Rank 20. Kusano

    Omakase Sushi

    The chef at this tiny omakase counter in Culver City handles everything, drinks included, which is either a red flag or a flex depending on your prior omakase experience. It's the latter. A handful of seats, two seatings a night, and a nigiri-forward menu where most pieces arrive simply dressed with nikiri and wasabi. Snag a reservation before someone else does, because they go fast.


  20. Rank 21. Morihiro

    Omakase Sushi





  21. Rank 25. Sushi Masuyoshi

    Omakase Sushi




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Eat Score

The score comes from the awards it's won, weighted by who gave them: a Michelin star outweighs a listicle. When you sort by what's nearby, distance changes the order, never the score.

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    The score comes from the awards it's won, weighted by who gave them: a Michelin star outweighs a listicle. When you sort by what's nearby, distance changes the order, never the score.

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      The score comes from the awards it's won, weighted by who gave them: a Michelin star outweighs a listicle. When you sort by what's nearby, distance changes the order, never the score.

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        The score comes from the awards it's won, weighted by who gave them: a Michelin star outweighs a listicle. When you sort by what's nearby, distance changes the order, never the score.

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          The Best Place Score rates the area around a point, not any one place. It runs on the scored places nearby: more good stuff within reach, higher score. If it looks low, we probably haven't found enough critics out here yet.