The Best Places to Stay and Do in Switzerland

Bare wood, warm tones, and a direct line of sight to the Gstaad Dolomites set the mood at this Alpine lodge and spa in the Pays-d'Enhaut, a Michelin Key property that leans into chalet fantasy without apologizing for it. The rooms and suites do the heavy lifting, and the restaurant, Le Roc, handles dinner with a menu that tilts toward meat and fish from seasonal Swiss larders. Gstaad is a few minutes away when the scenery stops being enough.

A Dutch design firm called Nicemakers did the interiors, which tells you something: this is a luxury Alpine hotel that takes the mid-century modernist gestures as seriously as the fondue-and-fir-beams atmosphere. Adelboden runs quieter than the flashier Swiss resorts, and The Brecon matches it, with 22 rooms, a guest-only spa and rooftop pool, and an all-inclusive drinks policy that makes the après feel genuinely unhurried. One Michelin Key.

Lake views from navy-and-neutral rooms that lean Art Deco without tipping into period-piece territory. This boutique hotel sits right on the shores of Lake Zurich, striking the balance between a stiff old-guard property and a design hotel that takes itself too seriously. The brasserie-style Studio Bellerive doubles as a local gathering spot, which tends to keep things lively. The Michelin Guide has it among its selected hotels.

A converted 19th-century brewery turned boutique hotel, the B2 sits close to the Hauptbahnhof with its original high arched windows and industrial bones intact. Sixty rooms and suites range from crisp standard doubles to striking duplex suites with separate living areas inside the old cold store. The Library Lounge, stocked with 33,000 titles from an antiquarian bookseller, is where you read over Swiss tapas and Hürlimann beer, which feels like the right order of priorities.

A townhouse in Old Town Geneva that doubles as a modernist furniture exhibition you can actually sleep in. The Hamlet's 18 serviced apartments were furnished in partnership with Vitra, so Jean Prouvé and Eames pieces share space with Bang & Olufsen speakers and Aesop bath products. The ground floor has a Vitra shop, though the vibe is more "live with great design" than hard sell. Old Town is walkable and charming, which helps when you've run out of reasons to stay inside.

The top-floor wellness area at this 20-room boutique hotel near Lake Zurich is reserved for women only, a nod to its former life as a women's boarding house. Rooms come in cheerful yellows and blues with parquet floors, breakfast is vegetarian and mostly organic, and there's a communal kitchen rather than a restaurant. Summer yoga happens on the rooftop with the lake and Alps as backdrop.

Street art on the walls, rock-star portraits behind the bar, and headboards printed with inspirational quotes: Hotel N'vY Geneva commits hard to its boho-chic boutique identity. The flamboyant color palette and groovy modernist furniture give it the feel of a downtown Manhattan gallery that somehow ended up in Switzerland, though underneath all that attitude it runs with the quiet efficiency you'd expect from a Swiss business hotel.

Pine paneling and faux-fur touches nod to Alpine tradition, but the rooms at this mountain resort skew contemporary, with high-tech amenities, lavish bathrooms, and balconies aimed squarely at the peaks. The 4 Elements Spa runs to an indoor pool, multiple saunas, and enough water features to forget there's a ski slope outside. Davos is famous for suits in January; the guests here are more likely in ski boots. The Michelin Guide awarded it one Key.

Every room comes with a private timber balcony pointed straight at the Alps, which tells you most of what you need to know about this boutique hotel's priorities. Stone and wood apartments have beamed ceilings and proper fires; the main rooms go for fashionable neutrals with splashes of color. The spa and indoor pool handle après-ski duty, a bar sets up cocktail hour, and in winter a sushi pop-up appears in the lounge, because Verbier contains multitudes. One Michelin Key.

A boutique hotel on the edge of an Alpine lake, at the foot of the Mont Blanc massif, that started life as a waystation for hikers and still feels like one, just with better beds. Six rooms and two suites pair sophisticated design with fir wood and local Simplon stone, and the spa punches well above the hotel's compact scale. The restaurant takes its name from the village's elevation, which tells you what the kitchen is going for. Michelin has given it a Key.

Wood-lined rooms with floor-to-ceiling windows that catch the Alps in every mood set the tone at this Swiss chalet-style hotel in Villars-sur-Ollon, holding a Michelin Key. The spa runs deep, with a pool, sauna, hammam, jacuzzi, and treatments from cult French brand Biologique Recherche. Two restaurants, a cigar lounge, and a pop-up summer terrace cover the evenings, while winter skiing and summer hiking ensure nobody has to sit still for long.

The old Swiss lakeside building bolted onto a minimalist modern wing tells you this resort operates on its own logic. Rooms range from warm, organic "natural chic" to graphic nature-print walls to former boathouse quarters with raw wood and textured concrete hovering over the water. Then there's the Thai spa, convincingly so. Two of the three restaurants lean Thai as well, which is either charming or deeply confusing, depending on your afternoon. The Michelin Guide awarded it one Key.

A grand mountain hotel above Villars-sur-Ollon, the Villars Palace holds a Michelin Key and membership in Leading Hotels of the World, and it leans into that standing with spa facilities running bioactive skincare treatments alongside a hammam and sauna. The dining spans Mediterranean to Swiss, the rooms face forest and peak, and the hotel doubles as a gallery space for rotating local and international artists. Old-school alpine resort, quietly updated.

A converted mill in Zurich with rooms decorated in the spirit of Dadaism, which means expect bold, deliberately odd design choices rather than the usual anodyne hotel neutrals. The co-working space draws a laptop crowd even on weekdays, and several rooms come with small kitchens if you'd rather not eat out every meal. A French bistro downstairs leans into the same kaleidoscopic aesthetic. Marketing calls it "just like home," though presumably your home is considerably less interesting.

The only way in is by funicular or train, because Mürren has no road, and that absence sets the tone for everything else at this family-run Alpine hotel. Rooms are simple, the bar is cozy and floral-curtained, and the ski trails pass close enough that you can hear them from outside. A pool and jacuzzi face the peaks, and the restaurants do fondue and steak without any fuss. It holds a Michelin Key.

Lake water pumped through the walls keeps the rooms cool in summer and warm in winter, which is a nicer story than most hotels can tell. HOOD is a 54-room hotel in the Eaux-Vives district, a tram ride from the center and a short walk from Lac Léman. Rooms run from snug singles to proper suites, and the restaurant downstairs leans toward mezze and flatbreads with cocktails alongside.

Alfredo Häberli, the Swiss designer famous for rethinking everyday objects like coat hangers and cutlery, conjured this hotel's interiors as a stylized Zurich in miniature, full of knowing nods to the city's landmarks. It sits in Zurich West, the former industrial quarter that traded factories for galleries and now holds some of the city's liveliest bars and restaurants. Rooms come with bike rentals rather than shoe shines, and rates run well below what Zurich hotels usually demand.

A private cable car hauls you up from Lucerne's lakeside to this Art Deco hotel, which is a detail that sets the tone for everything that follows. The canary-and-blue facade, the geometric carpets, the parquet floors, and the freestanding tubs in newly renovated bathrooms all commit fully to the style. Most rooms have balconies over the lake and its ring of snowy mountains, and the Louis Bar runs live jazz most nights.

Each of the 74 rooms at this boutique hotel in Lucerne's Neustadt is styled after a different Swiss waterfall, which sounds like a theme-park gimmick until you see how quietly it works. The building is old-school and substantial, the neighborhood is where locals actually live, and the lake and medieval old town are a short walk in either direction. Downstairs, a Spanish restaurant keeps things lively.

The Hauser family has been running this grand lakefront hotel for five generations, which explains why the staff remember your name before you remember theirs. The 101 classically appointed rooms look out over Lake Lucerne and the Alps beyond, and the guest book reads like a historical fever dream: Churchill, Tolstoy, Wagner, Neil Armstrong. A brasserie, a gastronomic restaurant, a bar popular with locals, and a fifth-floor spa with lake views round things out nicely.

Jean Nouvel designed this boutique hotel around a single conceit: every room's ceiling is a film still, enlarged and projected above you while you sleep. The selections run toward European art-house and the mildly racy, so expect Bertolucci overhead rather than a mountain vista. Studios and suites only, done in dark wood, steel, and earthy tones, with teak floors and theatrical lighting. Traditionalists wanting Alpine charm will find it elsewhere in Lucerne; everyone else gets a genuinely odd, stylish room.

Street art covers the public spaces of this design hotel on a pedestrian shopping and nightlife strip in the heart of Basel's Old Town. Guest rooms go calm and quiet, white walls and warm wood, which you'll appreciate after the rooftop bar. The Michelin Guide has it among its selected hotels.

An archaeological cellar winds around ancient Basel walls beneath a guesthouse that started as an artists' scheme to fund their own work. Two historic Old Town buildings hold gallery space, a theater running cabaret and comedy, and a bar with a pulse, alongside both casual and fine dining. The rooms are quieter than the agenda suggests, but the agenda is the point: this place treats a hotel stay as a side effect of a cultural encounter.

Hermann Hesse started writing Steppenwolf in room 4.1, which is either a great reason to book it or an excellent reason to avoid it, depending on your feelings about that novel. This old-school Basel hotel sits right on the Rhine in Kleinbasel, with arcade balconies facing the river and interiors running toward parquet, wainscoting, and chandeliers. The 60 rooms pair that preservation instinct with mid-century furniture and updated fixtures throughout.

A 1950s concrete apartment block, the first of its kind in Basel, now does hotel duty with its original facade intact and a purpose-built wing alongside. Inside, the raw concrete stays but gets company: color, warmth, and clean-lined furniture by local designer This Weber. The Eatery downstairs covers everything from a drink to a proper dinner. Sister to Krafft Basel, if that name rings any bells.

A heated whirlpool staring straight at the Matterhorn sets the tone for this boutique ski hotel in Zermatt: the mountain doesn't blink, but you might. Bare wood and organic textures keep things Alpine without veering into cuckoo-clock territory, and the vibe skews young and casual rather than hushed and formal. The Sunnegga Railway is a two-minute walk away, and the bistro downstairs runs one of the livelier après-ski scenes in town.

Five clubs and bars under one roof in Zermatt, which tells you exactly what kind of hotel this is. The après-ski party is the point here, and guests rotate between a wine cellar dance floor, live music, and a rustic pub without ever pulling on a coat. Rooms lean into mountain lodge style, with hundred-year-old stone walls alongside sandblasted wood and clean, minimal furniture, so the morning-after recovery happens somewhere handsome.

A medieval lakeside castle hotel on the shores of Lake Geneva, the kind of place where the walls are literally 900 years old and the windows frame the Alps. Rooms are spacious with floor-to-ceiling windows, and the suites lean into neo-gothic furniture and, in one case, a full 360-degree panoramic view of the lake. The bar is set inside the oldest stone section of the structure, which is a genuinely hard room to beat for a nightcap.

The abbey cathedral a few steps away has had a thousand years to perfect its impression, so the Einstein St. Gallen wisely plays elegant rather than competitive. This full-service luxury hotel dresses its rooms in marble, cherry wood, and silk, with parquet floors and lamb's-wool rugs throughout. A spa, atrium pool, two restaurants, and an English-style bar with a cigar lounge round things out for guests disinclined to move far.

Lord Byron once stayed here with a peacock, a monkey, and a replica of Napoleon's coach, which tells you something about the company this lakeside hotel in Lausanne has always kept. Inside, though, it runs thoroughly contemporary, all clean-lined rooms and fast wi-fi, while outside the manicured gardens face Lake Geneva and the Alps above. Business travelers fill much of the place, with a converted mansion given over entirely to private functions.

Perched above Lago Maggiore at the foot of the Madonna del Sasso, this hotel trades on one of the better views in the Swiss-Italian borderlands. Rooms all face the lake, the spa has a pool, and the garden hides a grotto restaurant that opens when the weather cooperates. La Fontana handles dinner with an open kitchen and a terrace when you'd rather eat than squint at the horizon.

A family hotel that has occupied the same hillside above Zermatt for generations, freshly rebuilt and expanded, with south-facing balconies that frame the Matterhorn so squarely it feels staged. The Sunnegga lift is steps away, so the logistics of a ski day are mercifully simple. Rooms run to 29, there's a substantial spa, and Ad Lib downstairs rewrites its menu each week around the market, which keeps things honest.

The rooms are dressed in blues borrowed from Lake Lugano, and the whole hotel is quietly in conversation with Dante's Divina Commedia, if you know to look for it. A boutique stay on the Piazza Cioccaro that handles business travelers without losing its personality, with an indoor green courtyard that feels genuinely restorative and a cocktail bar downstairs doing its own literary cosplay via French alchemist Nicolas Flamel.

A boutique hotel on the southern shore of Lake Zürich, Alex Lake is the kind of place that sends a boat to collect you from the city, which sets the tone rather well. The building is quietly modernist, the rooms are spacious and warm without being fussy, and the public spaces open generously toward the water. The restaurant and bar both have front-row views of the lake, which does a lot of the decorating.

A train station is built directly into the building, so checking in and catching a connection happen in the same trip. This Mercure sits in Meyrin's industrial zone, closer to CERN and a fine watchmaking school than to the old town, but ten minutes by rail to Cornavin keeps things honest. The six-story atrium and a large daylit conference centre pull the business crowd, and the 163 rooms are exactly what the brand promises: reliable, not romantic.

A luxury hotel on the shore of Lake Lugano, with a private summer terrace that makes sunbathing feel like a personal discovery rather than a poolside scramble. The property has been around forever, grown into a full estate with three restaurants, two bars, a Clarins spa, a pool, and a tennis court. The kind of place that doesn't need to try very hard, because the lake does most of the work.

A 19th-century castle on the quieter side of the valley from St. Moritz, Hotel Schloss Pontresina plays the Romantic-atmosphere card without making guests earn it through draughty corridors. Rooms run Alpine-contemporary, with knotty cabinetry, red fabric accents, and oversized windows pointed at the Bernina glacier. The whole property leans into family travel, the spa runs year-round, and the slopes are five kilometers away.

A rooftop spa with a view over the Roseg valley toward Piz Palü sets the tone at this Art Nouveau hotel in Pontresina, a family-run property that has been around forever and then some. The building has 85 rooms and three restaurants, and solar panels now generate the hotel's own electricity. The Michelin Guide selects it among its recommended hotels in the region.

Perched in the Alps above Lake Lucerne, the Waldhotel is the wellness-focused property within the Bürgenstock Resort, with rooms that look out over Swiss peaks and a spa that anchors the whole operation. The Verbena Restaurant runs from Middle Eastern to French without apology, and the pool view earns its keep. Downstairs there's a medical facility, should you need your holiday to double as a check-up.

A ceiling embroidered in the style of the old cotton weaving workshop that once stood here sets the tone for this 20-room hotel tucked into the Appenzell hills. The wine cellar holds over 15,000 bottles tracked by an electronic sommelier, and an open-fire Grillworks station anchors the kitchen. The rosehip motif, the house symbol, follows you from room to room in case you forgot where you were.

Floor-to-ceiling windows and private balconies mean the Engadin Valley does most of the decorating at this contemporary alpine hotel just outside St. Moritz. The building is deliberately low-slung, all glass and local timber, chosen over the usual chalet kitsch. Seventy rooms lean clean-lined and blond-wood calm, junior suites nearly double the space, and the spa throws in an underwater relaxation bed for guests who find hot tubs insufficiently dramatic.

The storybook facade on Lake Geneva looks borrowed from Venice, which sets the tone for everything inside. This grand hotel in Vevey has two restaurants, a spa, and rooms done in old-world elegance that stops just short of fussy. The panoramic terrace puts the Alps directly across the water. Vevey itself is an easy case to make: fine wine, good chocolate, and the Montreux Jazz Festival practically next door.

Kurhaus translates literally as "cure house," and this hillside spa hotel above Lake Lugano has been in the curing business for a very long time. The DOT.Spa anchors the whole operation, backed by a pool bar, a cocktail bar, and a restaurant ensuring nobody accidentally detoxes too hard. Rooms face either the lake or the gardens, all done in a contemporary style that nods to the sanatorium past without feeling clinical about it.

Gstaad has its grand old palaces, and then it has this: a 29-room boutique hotel built by Swiss craftsmen from local larch and parquet, pitched as the relaxed alternative. Nearly every room has a sheltered balcony designed to be used even in a snowstorm, which tells you something about how carefully the place was thought through. A ground-floor brasserie and Gstaad's only rooftop restaurant, open year-round, round out the stay.

Ski-in, ski-out access to the Cry d'Er gondola sits right outside the door, which is a useful amenity when the building itself looks like a luxury spaceship that studied Alpine architecture for a semester abroad. This is a high-end Swiss mountain resort with rooms in chic dark neutrals, full-length windows framing the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc, a vast spa that offers both massages and "biohacking," and a Japanese restaurant alongside an all-day Alpine brasserie.

Lake Lugano technically can't decide if it's Swiss or Italian, and neither can this lakeside hotel. The building is modernist glass angled toward the water, but step inside and the rooms lean toward Renaissance villa, all classic furnishings and bathrooms substantial enough to skip the spa over. Though the spa is worth skipping nothing for, with multiple pools, saunas, and a side offering in aesthetic medicine for guests who want restoration at a cellular level.

A centuries-old barn and stable in the tiny village of Fürstenau, rebuilt by architect Gion A. Caminada into a boutique hotel where heavy timber meets spare, modern furnishings in a way that feels more considered than contradictory. Rooms look out over the village rooftops or the mountains beyond. Guests tend to have dinner next door at Schloss Schauenstein, which is its own conversation entirely.

The rakish angles of this luxury alpine hotel are a deliberate argument with the landscape, not a retreat from it, and the monumental modern interiors hold their own against the Alps outside. Rooms run from snug forest-facing doubles to suites with panoramic terraces and freestanding tubs. Two restaurants, a Nescens spa, an indoor pool, and a Sport Boutique that can kit you out for the slopes round things out nicely.

Gstaad has spent decades perfecting its reputation as a playground for people who don't need to ask the price of anything, and Hotel Olden is a quietly confident counterpoint to all that. The suites run to creamy neutrals, rustic beams, and painted Alpine motifs rather than marble and chandeliers. The restaurant downstairs leans into full chalet mode, good for an après-ski dinner when the slopes have done their work.

The original lift, restored to working order, is still ferrying guests between floors at this grand old alpine hotel, and that tells you something about the approach. Interiors run to natural wood and charcoal, rooms face forest or mountain, and a wooden chalet in the garden serves fondue under crown-glass windows. The slopes of Bergbahnen are a short walk away, assuming the village's luxury boutiques don't intervene first.

A converted gondola station perched high above Crans-Montana, Chetzeron is a boutique alpine hotel that looks nothing like a chalet: concrete, stone, and glass, with 16 minimalist rooms and a rooftop pool that runs year-round. Ski in and out in winter; in summer, the wildflower meadows take over the view. The Michelin Guide has it among its selected hotels, which tracks when you factor in the gourmet kitchen and hammam.

The original key racks are still in use, and the staircase still creaks, which tells you everything about how this grand hotel above Sils Maria thinks about progress. Five generations of the same family have kept it stately without turning it into a museum, and 140 rooms, a forest-fringed spa, and views across glassy lakes and snowy peaks make the case that not every Swiss hotel needs to be in St. Moritz.

Huus Gstaad hands you high-end backpacks and binoculars on the way to your room, which is a fairly clear signal about who they're courting. This alpine hotel sits in one of Switzerland's most rarefied ski towns but pitches itself at actual slope-carvers rather than the champagne-at-altitude crowd. The 136 rooms run warm and woody, with Hästens mattresses for when you've genuinely earned the sleep. Dogsledding, hot-air ballooning, and an on-site ski school fill the days; a gin-forward house bar and a fireplace fill the evenings.

The 450-square-metre spa has a wood sauna positioned so you stare directly at the Eiger's north face, which is either deeply calming or deeply alarming depending on your relationship with mountains. This family-run alpine hotel sits beside Interlaken's golf course, rooms done in warm timber with balconies aimed at the Bernese Oberland. The spa was designed by the family themselves, which shows in how personal the whole place feels.

The rooftop hot tub overlooks green pastures and snow-capped peaks, bookable privately along with the wood-burning stove, which is either very romantic or very Swiss, possibly both. This boutique hotel occupies a timber-and-stone building that's been around forever, though the rooms run pale knotty wood and quasi-Scandinavian light rather than alpine kitsch. Flower murals brighten the breakfast room. Yodeling festivals happen nearby; the solar panels on the steep roof happen here.

A chandelier of Murano glass icicles hangs in the lobby, which sets the tone for a mountain hotel that leans into local stone and wood without feeling like a ski-chalet cliché. Guestrooms go quietly modern, all clean shapes, muted tones, and a hint of silk. Dining runs from raclette and fondue to a Michelin-starred restaurant under the same roof, so you can calibrate ambition by evening.

Across the road from a famous Benedictine monastery, Hotel Caspar tucks a sleek, modern hotel inside three carefully preserved buildings, the oldest dating back centuries. Rooms run from compact singles to generous lofts and duplexes, all clean lines and quiet luxury. Two restaurants occupy separate historic structures: the village-style Adler and the more avant-garde Ochsen. Muri is a small town, but the hotel gives you a real reason to stay rather than pass through.

Perched on a hillside above Spiez, this Swiss hotel looks across Lake Thun toward the Bernese Alps with the quiet confidence of a place that knows it has the best seat in the room. Rooms have hardwood floors and a mix of antique and modern furnishings, most with balconies. An indoor pool, a well-equipped spa, and acres of parkland round things out, plus a tennis court for anyone who feels guilty about the spa.

The newest and shiniest of three sibling hotels sharing a village block in Gonten, this five-star boutique property wears a traditional Alpine silhouette but fills it with thoroughly contemporary rooms. The spa runs to 2,200 square meters, nine pools, eight saunas, and a biohacking lab, which is a sentence you rarely read in the Alps. Guests also draw on the dining rooms of all three hotels, from rustic Appenzeller to serious gourmet.

Parked right at the cable-car station in Laax, this ski resort runs on regional hydroelectricity and was built with sustainably sourced materials, which gives eco-credentials a more architectural feel than a bumper sticker. Rooms range from doubles to apartments for groups of eight, so families and friend-packs both fit. The Alps handle the scenery, and several on-site restaurants cover the Surselva region's cooking for when legs give out after a day on the slopes.

Wengen is one of Switzerland's nine car-free villages, so you arrive by train and walk everywhere, which sets the tone nicely. This chalet hotel has been around forever and got a thorough refresh for a recent reopening, pairing pale wood and vintage travel posters with a glass-encased spa pool that looks straight out at the Alps. A restored cable car does duty as a fondue cabin for two, which is either romantic or absurd, possibly both.

High in the Val d'Hérens at over 1,800 meters, with the Dent Blanche and Matterhorn filling the window, this alpine hotel is built from sustainably harvested timber sourced within 65 kilometers, which gives the rooms a warmth that feels earned rather than designed. Five restaurants run from Neapolitan pizza to local raclette. Direct access to the neighboring onsen-inspired spa, with heated outdoor pools, makes it as easy to argue for in July as in January.

The Experimental Group started with a cocktail bar in Paris and somehow ended up with a ski hotel in the Swiss Alps, which tracks. The Experimental Chalet in Verbier is a design-forward alpine stay, its interiors by Milanese architect Fabrizio Casiraghi drawing from postwar modernism rather than the usual lodge-and-antler playbook. A lobby bar, a farm-to-table restaurant, and the Farm Club nightclub downstairs keep guests off the slopes longer than planned.

Wengen is car-free, so the loudest thing outside your window is the Eiger. The Grand Hotel Belvedere is a luxury Alpine hotel, overhauled by the Beaumier group into something that manages to feel genuinely modern without the cold shoulder that usually implies. Bare wood keeps the mountains in the room, and the spa goes full concrete-and-angles, which is either jarring or a relief depending on how your day went. The Michelin Guide has it among its Selected Hotels.

A country inn that's been around forever, sitting in the Swiss Mittelland looking exactly as old as it is, though the rooms inside tell a different story: the main house runs clean and minimalist, while the converted barn goes warm and textural, equally contemporary by different means. The owner also runs the kitchen, which focuses the mind wonderfully on getting the details right, from the restaurant to the bedside lamp placement.

A 360-degree fireplace sits at the center of this wood-and-stone alpine lodge in Verbier, bookable only on an exclusive-use basis for up to 26 guests. Private chefs, drivers, and hosts come with it, alongside a spa with a sauna and hammam, a cinema room, a terrace Jacuzzi facing the mountains, and champagne on ice at all hours. The rooms, dressed in bespoke furnishings and Italian stone, hold their own even against all that.

The outdoor bathtubs in the suites are angled toward Lake Sempach and the Alps, which tells you most of what you need to know about the priorities here. Sonne Seehotel is a lakeside retreat in the village of Eich, been around forever, with 42 rooms all sporting private loggias and the larger ones offering rotating beds for reasons the brochure doesn't fully explain. Summer brings a lido scene of swimmers and families spread out along the water.

Hand-painted frescoes and a spiral staircase that survived into the present intact set the tone at this seven-suite guesthouse in S-chanf, perched above the Engadin Valley. The owner is a former gallerist, and the interiors mix restored original details with flea-market antiques and rotating art shows. Pine floors, wood-beam ceilings, and the occasional tartan suite round things out. Homemade breakfast and afternoon cocktails in the library are included.