The Best Places to Drink and Stay in France

A Provençal mansion and cluster of farmhouses a few minutes inland from the Saint-Tropez circus, surrounded by gardens lush enough to make you forget the port exists. Rooms and suites run to antiques and pale sunny tones, very classic Provence. A Carita spa, a pool, and the restaurant L'Isoletta keep you on property longer than planned, which seems to be the whole idea.

Art Deco bones and a Mediterranean view from a private balcony set the tone at this boutique hotel on the Cap d'Antibes coast, which has been on this exact spot since the interwar years it never stopped dressing for. The renovation kept the visual restraint that separates a contemporary tribute from a theme park. Seasonal restaurants handle both winter dining rooms and summer rooftop terraces with Italian and Spanish-leaning menus. The beach at Belle Rives is steps away.

Four sea-facing rooms with balconies hang over the beach at Saint-Malo; the other twelve look onto a garden or courtyard, which is the consolation prize and not a bad one. This 16-room boutique hotel in two joined 19th-century villas wears its coastal setting without tipping into nautical-theme-park territory. The interiors are stylish in a relaxed, slightly irreverent way, and the bistro sits close enough to the water that on a good day you're basically dining on the sand.

The ponds Corot painted are still there, visible from the bedroom windows of this quietly elegant hotel between Paris and Versailles. The décor has a contemporary eye despite all the historical bones, and the spa, Le Bains de Corot, is serious enough to anchor a whole stay. A gastronomic restaurant, a bistro, two bars, and a tearoom mean you rarely need to leave, which is probably the point.

A boutique hotel in a restored northern French presbytery where your two main options are a bed in what used to be the parish priest's room, or a painted wooden caravan parked in the garden. The annex rooms are whitewashed and vaulted, quietly pleasant. The caravans are a different proposition entirely, wood-paneled and dressed in colorful textiles, each with a private bathroom and enough charm to make even a charcuterie board feel ceremonial.

Four bedrooms and a garden apartment tucked into a medieval village in the Malepère hills, this is the kind of small guesthouse that makes you feel like you have a friend with taste and a spare room in the south of France. Handmade mattresses, Aesop in the bathrooms, and a conservatory with a communal table where guests actually talk to each other. Carcassonne's citadel is a short drive away for when the fire and the bookshelves stop being enough.

A former army barracks that became a school before becoming a boutique hotel is either a great story or a cautionary tale, and La Mission makes it the former. Seven low buildings arranged around a courtyard hold rooms with pale wainscoting, cheerful patterns, and antique pieces that lean nostalgic without tipping into fusty. A heated pool, pétanque courts, and rental bikes for the beach round out an Île d'Yeu stay that the Michelin Guide has selected.

Four rooms in a restored Gascon farmhouse in a corner of Gascony that likes to call itself the French Tuscany. One room has a freestanding tub and a stone fireplace, two have Jacuzzis, and the whole place has the eclectic, cheerful décor of someone who spent years in Parisian fashion before coming home to run their great-grandmother's inn. The kitchen punches above its size, and the Michelin Guide has taken notice of the hotel.

On the main pedestrian shopping street of Megève, three minutes from the gondola, this 39-room boutique hotel looks exactly as alpine as it should from the outside. Inside, designer Sybille de Margerie swapped the expected knotty pine for rich colors and modernist furniture without losing the mountain feeling entirely. The spa runs Tata Harper treatments, and Le Meige cocktail bar handles après-ski with quiet efficiency.

The cottages lean surf-shack on the outside, then quietly reveal heated pools and thalassotherapy treatments within. This 170-room resort hotel sits on the Emerald Coast with panoramic views over the English Channel, and the rooms carry a convincing casual-seaside feel that disguises how serious the amenities get. Two restaurants, a spa, and a setting that makes the grey Atlantic look like a selling point rather than a warning.

A converted Basque farmhouse sitting in the wooded foothills rather than on the beach, Indarra trades sea views for pale wood paneling, picture windows, and a quieter kind of Biarritz. The rooms run from attic nooks to a duplex with a freestanding tub to a minimalist cabin with a wide private deck. Breakfast is served outside overlooking the gardens and pool, which is exactly the morning you were hoping for when you booked.

The restaurant sits under a 19th-century glass atrium ceiling said to have come from the Eiffel workshops, which sets the tone for this 62-room boutique hotel across from Toulon's maritime museum. The nautical theme is telegraphed in the name, but the wave motifs and navy palette stay restrained. Toulon is a working port, not a resort town, and the hotel leans into that: some rooms sleep eight in bunk configurations, others are standard doubles.

Perched on the slopes of Mont Cindre with Lyon spread out below, this sleek, modern hotel earns its name by feeling genuinely removed from everything. The design is clean to the point of near-silence, and a wellness area with an indoor-outdoor pool keeps the mood accordingly still. The kitchen-dining room at its center serves inventive takes on Lyonnais cooking, which is either very on-theme or a little on the nose, depending on your relationship with French culinary pride.

A ten-story wooden chalet right on the slopes of Méribel, with vintage cuckoo clocks dotting the walls and a Tata Harper spa waiting for when your legs give out. This ski-in, ski-out luxury hotel sits inside Les 3 Vallées, the largest ski area in the world, and the indoor-outdoor pools separated by glass make a strong case for staying put. Three restaurants, a terrace with slope views, and interiors that mix antiques with warm natural light complete the picture.

A modernist chandelier fit for a Sun King hangs over the emerald-and-gold lobby bar, which sets the tone for this boutique hotel a ten-minute walk from Versailles. The 19th-century facade gives way to parquet floors and trompe l'oeil ceilings, and the restaurant, Alcôve, runs modern French rather than period pastiche. Small enough to feel intimate, central enough to make the palace an afterthought.

A 21-room boutique hotel tucked into a quiet courtyard right next to Tours' covered gourmet market, Les Halles, which is a useful combination. The rooms mix antique touches with genuinely modern comforts, and a wellness area adds an indoor pool, sauna, and steam room to the deal. The salon pours wines and cocktails and opens onto the courtyard, so you can sit outside feeling pleasantly secluded while the city carries on about ten steps away.

Rough-hewn logs and Canadian Rockies stonework in the middle of Megève's fur-coat après-ski scene, which is either a bold statement or a very good joke. This seasonal ski hotel leans lodge over chalet by design, courtesy of the Sibuet family. Rooms come with high-end bedding and fireplaces, a Longevity Spa runs the full circuit from pool to ice grotto to cryotherapy, and the bar draws a crowd that is absolutely not dressed as a lumberjack.

Arpin wool fabrics and carpets so thick you'll go barefoot within minutes set the tactile tone at this alpine chalet hotel in Megève, where the Rothschild après-ski heritage is worn without apology. The 42 rooms and suites each have balconies facing either the village or a mirror-calm courtyard pond. Downstairs, a bistro, a gastronomic open-kitchen restaurant, and a bar with a hot cocktail menu cover the full après spectrum.

Pine forest on one side, the Chiberta golf course on the other, and Biarritz's beaches a few minutes down the road: this renovated hotel in Anglet has quietly landed in a very convenient spot. The 58 rooms mix clean contemporary lines with local artisan work, and an Andalusian courtyard sits at the center of it all. There's also a spa run with Swedish brand L.A. Bruket and a restaurant pairing Basque and South American cooking.

Five rooms tucked above what is primarily a fine-dining destination, this guesthouse in Saint-Grégoire lets you sleep off dinner rather than drive home from it. The Lounge Bar and Salon Bar handle the before and after, with a fireplace for digestifs on colder nights and a terrace and heated pool when Brittany decides to cooperate. A boutique on the way out sells gourmet souvenirs chosen by the chef, in case you weren't already committed to the bit.

A grand spiral staircase anchors this boutique hotel inside an opulent mansion a few blocks from Nîmes' Roman amphitheater. The Rouge restaurant gets the dramatics right with scarlet arching walls, while a library lined with jewel-toned sofas and vintage cocktail carts handles the quiet hours. Rooms run to hardwood floors and boldly tiled bathrooms, but the open-air courtyard, plunge pool and all, is where guests tend to linger longest.

A grand Alpine hotel with a past that includes a cameo in Les Liaisons Dangereuses and Jean Cocteau as a regular. The redesign, by the same hand behind Les Fermes de Marie, leans toward the classic rather than the fashionable, which suits a place this old-school. Three restaurants, a spa, and the standing invitation of mid-afternoon champagne make it easy to forget skiing was technically the point. Open December through April.

The wrap-around Art Deco bay window in the restaurant frames Lake Annecy like the hotel chose the view on purpose, which it did. This grand old lakeside palace has been around forever and knows it, but recent renovations mean the rooms now pair antique bones with unexpectedly bold mural walls. Most look straight over the water. The spa, gardens, and unhurried pace round things out for guests who came to do very little, very comfortably.

A converted 18th-century villa tucked among Aix's townhouses, this small luxury hotel pulls off the trick of feeling like someone's very grand country estate. Classic rooms already run to parquet floors and monogrammed robes; the suites push further into genuinely theatrical territory. A pool, a garden, a pocket spa, and a conservatory restaurant with a zinc bar fill out the picture for guests who aren't planning to leave anytime soon.

A converted Benedictine monastery on the shore of Lac d'Annecy, which Cézanne apparently found compelling enough to visit in person. The hotel moves at a monastic pace by design: afternoons on the lime-shaded terrace, classical concerts in the gallery, gardens supplying the kitchen. Antique oak, exposed timbers, and the Prior's Room with its 1681 parquet floors suggest the decorators consulted no one after Louis XIV.

White gates on Boulevard Mirabeau open onto a small hotel in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence where staying the night after dinner is frankly the sensible option. Rooms are bright and floral, done in cheerful yellows, and the covered terrace is the place to be in summer when aperitifs stretch into the long Provençal evening. The team is happy to point you toward the region if you linger a day or two longer.

A low-slung modernist building set among lavender fields in Provence, which is either a contradiction or the point, depending on your mood. This spa hotel was designed by the owners themselves and furnished by Parisian designer Christophe Pillet, whose minimalist suites lean on color and texture over clutter. Three treatment rooms, an indoor pool for water therapies, and a restaurant drawing on local produce keep things self-contained and very calm.

A classic country-house hotel tucked into seven acres of gardens beneath the ruined Château des Baux-de-Provence, with lavender fields and the Alpilles peaks filling the gaps between olive trees. The rooms are quietly luxurious without shouting about it, the restaurant leans on produce from the property's own gardens, and the pace slows down fast enough that a pétanque game before dinner starts to feel like a reasonable plan.

A red-brick northern manor in the Parc du Verseau, a short drive from Lille, where a hotel is doing a convincing impression of someone's very tasteful country house. The 15 rooms each commit to their own sensory world, from moody darks to deep reds and round windows. The ground floor flows from breakfast through dinner at La Table des Bienheureux, and a wine cellar lets you leave with more than memories.

A champagne house that decided thirteen rooms and a suite made more sense than a tasting room alone, Le N3 is a boutique hotel in a period townhouse a short walk from Reims Cathedral. The family-designed interiors run to soft tones and classical detail, and house champagne appears at every reasonable opportunity. Staying here is essentially a polite excuse to drink from the cellar without driving home.

The hotel that put Megève on the map has been here forever, and the top-floor rooms tucked under the sloped eaves still feel like proof. Parquet floors, wood beams, and bathtubs with mountain views give this alpine hotel its particular charm, while downstairs a pastry chef runs hot chocolate and sweets beside a fireplace and La Fromagerie serves raclette by candlelight. The rooftop lounge, with wraparound windows and peak panoramas, handles après-ski.

A stone-walled pool and a Sisley spa sit beside hundred-year-old magnolia trees at this luxury boutique hotel just outside Beaune, which reads less like a place to book and more like a set from a film where everyone moves slowly and orders a second glass. Rooms have wood-beamed ceilings, exposed stone, and antique pieces throughout. A fireplace bar handles the evenings, and the restaurant holds a Michelin star for when you'd rather not leave the grounds.

The old fire-department headquarters turned luxury boutique hotel sits directly across from Notre-Dame Cathedral, so many of the 89 rooms effectively have a window into the 14th century. Inside, everything is contemporary, champagne-toned, and comfortable in the way Marriott's Autograph Collection tends to manage. There's a spa, a fitness center, and an all-day bistro on the ground floor. Reims has the cathedral, the art museum, and more champagne cellars than you'll get through.

A 19th-century manor house in the Burgundy village of Pommard, done up with enough contemporary polish that the stone walls don't feel like a museum. This small hotel and spa looks out over the vineyards, and Pommard wine flows accordingly. The on-site restaurant runs most of the year with seasonal cooking, and the village has other options when it closes. Good base camp for anyone who came to Burgundy to drink seriously.

Cézanne used to cut through these grounds with his easel on the way to paint Sainte-Victoire, and the four-acre garden at this 18th-century villa hotel looks much as it did then: old chestnuts, ivy-covered trellises, stone fountains. Inside, the rooms go contemporary, with metallic wallpaper the old master never saw coming. A pool, a pétanque pitch, and an onsite restaurant round things out before you remember Aix itself is just down the road.

A cocktail bar sitting on the banks of the Charente river, in the middle of Cognac country, that has committed fully to the local spirit, which is either very obvious or very smart. Over 200 bottles line the shelves, and the staff treat recommendations as a calling. The cocktail list runs from classics to odder pairings, with cognac at the center of all of it, as you'd expect given the address.

The bartenders here wear crisp shirts and bow ties, which is where the formality ends, as everything below the waist is boxer shorts. Le Calbar is a cocktail bar in the 12th that has carved out a niche by refusing to be precious about itself, a posture Paris does not always come naturally to. The drinks, though, are careful and creative, built around a menu of country-themed cocktails that take the concept more seriously than the dress code.

Jean-François Bodin's weathered cedar facade looks like it grew out of the Corsican hillside, which is either very clever architecture or a remarkable coincidence. Casadelmar is a sleek, design-forward hotel above the Gulf of Porto-Vecchio, where every room terrace faces the bay and the private beach is a short walk down the hill. Le Corbusier chairs, an infinity pool, a spa, and a two-Michelin-starred restaurant on the premises keep the bar where it is. Open late April through early October.

Perched above the bay on its own manicured grounds, this boutique hotel runs more like a private estate than a resort, which is more or less the point in St. Tropez. Rooms are done in soft contemporary whites with marble bathrooms and private terraces, some looking out over the water. A heated outdoor pool and a fitness center round things out for guests who require a reason to stay on the property. Open mid-April through mid-October.

Lake Annecy sits at the foot of the Alps, which means the view from this lakeside hotel is the kind that makes you forget whatever you were worried about. Rooms in the original building lean Alpine-rustic; newer ones run more contemporary boutique, and all of them are quietly luxurious without making a fuss about it. A spa, a pool, private beaches, a gourmet restaurant, and a casual beach bar cover most of what a person might need for a few days of doing very little.

A 14th-century fireplace anchors the Guard Room of this hotel, tucked inside a medieval hilltop village above the Côte d'Azur. Each of the 28 rooms is individually named after an artist connected to the region, with hand-painted details and heavy drapery softened by heated floors and stone sinks. The restaurant's retractable roof opens to sea views over a glass of Bandol. Renoir drew inspiration here; Bardot and Garbo came to hide. The tradition holds.

A 16th-century bastide tucked into 37 acres of parkland just outside Saint-Rémy, this 19-room luxury hotel is the work of the Fontenille group, whose country properties set a high bar in France. The gardens were designed by the architect's mother, which tells you something about the level of personal investment. No restaurant, but breakfast is served daily, the estate's own wines are poured, and the whole of Saint-Rémy is minutes away when the pool loses its appeal.

A stylist and a photographer own this 14-room boutique hotel in central Nîmes, which explains why every sightline ends on something worth looking at: brocade canopy beds, vintage claw-foot tubs, antiques arranged for intrigue rather than propriety, caged birds. Outside, cloistered Provençal garden, cascading bougainvillea, a marble fountain, and a jade pool. Nîmes runs darker and more cerebral than the rest of Provence, and the hotel leans into that rather than fighting it.

Eight rooms, each with its own designed personality, in a boutique hotel tucked into central Caen. La Discrète pairs a leopard-print headboard with Asian-legend wallpaper, which tells you everything about the decorating philosophy here. Some rooms open onto private terraces, the bathrooms run Clarins, and the in-house bar pours signature cocktails alongside a selection of rare bottles for anyone who needs a reason to stay in.

Giant trees frame every window at this wooded resort just outside Lyon, where guests once came for iron-rich mineral waters and still come for more or less the same reasons. The spa has a large indoor pool, hammam, and Jacuzzi; rooms mix Art Deco rugs and canopy beds with bold botanical wallpaper, and all have private balconies facing the forest. The casino across the street keeps things from getting too serene.

A Greco-Roman manor sitting in a forested park just outside Saint-Rémy, this hotel plays the Provençal refinement game with conviction. Monogrammed linens, king beds, private terraces, and suites with plunge pools set the tone, while the grounds offer pétanque, a heated outdoor pool, a spa with a year-round indoor pool, a bistro, and a bar with live music. The complimentary shuttle into the village is a civilized touch.

While most Saint-Tropez hotels are chasing either Bardot-era nostalgia or Belle Époque grandeur, this boutique luxury hotel goes its own way. Christophe Pillet's design lands somewhere between Provençal warmth and clean modernism, and even the entry-level bungalows come with a private terrace and outdoor shower. The heated pool, the Spa Sezz by Susanne Kaufmann, and a poolside bar ensure you have very little reason to leave.

A saltwater pool carved straight into the Ramatuelle hillside sets the tone for this boutique hotel, which sits just over the ridge from Saint-Tropez proper, close enough to the Pampelonne beach scene to dip in, far enough to sleep past ten. The interiors are immaculate and photograph themselves. A full spa and a Mediterranean restaurant round things out. Open May through October, which honestly tracks for a place this unrushed.

Stone shepherd houses, fully renovated but still wearing their old bones well, scattered across a working farm on Corsica's south coast. This is the closest France gets to an agriturismo, and it's a generous interpretation: each dwelling comes with a fireplace, private pool, and outdoor kitchen. Guests share a private beach, a golf course, and a fishing boat. Three restaurants on the estate, one inside a terraced cave, mean you could stay a week without repeating yourself.

A gated estate on a private white-sand cove just outside Porto Vecchio, this Michelin Key resort sits among pine trees on Corsica's quietly glamorous east coast. The palette is whites and ocean blues, elegant without the stuffiness of a Riviera grand hotel. There's a beachfront bar, a Corsican tapas terrace, and a spa housed in a teak treehouse. St. Tropez energy, minus the circus. It closes each winter, so plan accordingly.

Set on a wooded hilltop estate above the Corsican coastline, this elegant family-run hotel looks out over the Mediterranean from nearly every angle, including the infinity pool and the restaurant terrace. Local stone and recycled wood run throughout, and a cocktail bar hides in an olive grove. The Michelin Guide awarded it one Key. Top suites come with glass-walled terraces and Philippe Starck soaking tubs; even the simpler rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows facing the gardens.

The stones in the walls came from a medieval castle the First World War destroyed, which gives this tiny B&B an unusual kind of weight. Chez Ric et Fer has two rooms and a suite, all done in a late-Modernist, early-Seventies aesthetic by the Parisian couple who run it. An hour from Paris, in a quiet village that clearly has a complicated history, it's a stylish, uncomplicated place to disappear for a weekend.

A feudal estate in the Charente that has been around since at least the 1400s and somehow doesn't feel like a museum about it. This five-room country hotel mixes antique furniture and old stone bones with modern comforts and contemporary touches, keeping the whole thing feeling like a borrowed house rather than a heritage site. There's a saltwater pool and tennis, breakfast from the farm, and the town of Confolens with its restaurants a short drive away.

A 16th-century château on the wooded edge of Vannes, reimagined as a hotel where the original stonework and slate rooftops now share the grounds with bold black-and-gold structures. The 71 rooms lean into the setting, with stone, wood, and garden views doing most of the decorating. A spa, a gourmet restaurant, and walking trails through orchards and herb gardens round things out for anyone who came to Brittany specifically to slow down.

Steps from the Aiguille du Midi cable car, this modern hotel wears its chalet-shaped exterior as a nod to Chamonix tradition, then goes minimalist inside: oak floors, gray tweed, white sheets, private balconies with mountain views. The subterranean Nuxe Spa runs to an ice grotto, a Japanese whirlpool, and a hanging Egg chair, which is either very relaxing or an art installation. A serve-yourself popcorn bar rounds out the après-ski options for guests of all ages.

Sybille de Margerie's renovation turned an old-school Chamonix institution into something that manages Alpine warmth and Belle Époque bones without feeling like a museum. The hotel sits in one of France's most serious ski towns, so the rooms are properly comfortable, the Spa Clarins handles the après-ski damage, and Le Matafan takes care of dinner. Bose speakers and Nespresso machines signal the clientele; they are not here to rough it.

An old stone farmhouse in the wooded hills above Plage de Tahiti, where the hotel produces its own olive oil and wine and lays out fruit from the garden each morning at a long, unhurried open-air breakfast. Rooms run to terracotta floors and Provençal antiques, some with sea-view balconies or skylights. It's a boutique hotel that Saint-Tropez's glossier crowd walks straight past, which is more or less the point.

A converted farmhouse perched in the hillside village of Mougins, seven kilometers from the Cannes chaos, with views across the surrounding hills and a Clarins spa waiting below. Le Mas Candille is a small luxury hotel, 46 rooms, all antique touches and quiet opulence, with a Californian-inflected design sensibility that sits oddly well in Provence. Two heated pools and an Italian restaurant round things out.

A wedge-shaped hotel with Mont Blanc filling every window, Le Morgane is the kind of mountain stay where the design team clearly had strong feelings about egg-shaped wooden chairs and wildflower close-ups. A recent renovation stripped out its former chain-hotel life in favor of cool, spare interiors and an eco-conscious fit-out. After a day on the slopes, the spa and a private terrace are waiting, and the in-house bistro sources from the Chamonix Valley and its neighbors across the border.

A boutique hotel sitting right on the banks of Lac d'Annecy, where the view does most of the heavy lifting and the interiors, all modernist angles and considered design, quietly compete with it anyway. Gardens, a sauna, and a hot tub give the place a stillness that feels earned rather than manufactured. Family-owned, so the service has a genuine warmth the sleek rooms don't quite telegraph on their own. There's a bistro onsite leaning into local and seasonal.

A sixteenth-century residence turned boutique hotel tucked inside the walled village of Saint Paul de Vence, halfway between Cannes and Monaco. Rooms lean small by modern standards, which is the house's way of reminding you it predates the concept of the executive suite, but printed fabrics, antique furniture, and balconies over the valley compensate generously. The restaurant's vaulted dining rooms have murals, frescoes, and a fountain. Closed November through March.

Ten rooms tucked into an 18th-century aristocratic townhouse in Nancy's old center, with a library installed in the former stables and breakfast served in the courtyard when the weather cooperates. This boutique hotel keeps the period bones but lets a sharp contemporary eye handle the furnishings, so the ten rooms and lofts feel curated rather than museumified. It's the kind of small, unhurried place that makes Paris hotels feel like they're competing for square footage.

A 17th-century farmhouse on the Île de la Barthelasse, the sliver of countryside that splits the Rhône just outside Avignon's old walls. This small boutique hotel keeps the period stonework intact while the five rooms lean into a focused, uncluttered modernity. The pool and pétanque court do a lot of heavy lifting on slow afternoons, and the kitchen sends out tapas alongside the house cocktails when you can't face moving far.

Four treehouses perched over a garden of roses and oak branches just outside medieval Saint-Paul de Vence, this boutique stay is the kind of place where the hardest decision is whether your cabin gets the teak soaking tub or the four-poster draped in mosquito nets. Natural wood, private terraces, an ecological pool, and a barrel sauna fill the gaps. Breakfast arrives poolside or, when it rains, directly to your door. The French Riviera is right there whenever you're ready.

Chestnut and cedar shade a former Belle Époque hotel that someone has put back together with real care, a Michelin Key hotel in the mountain village of Zonza, up in Corsica's Alta Rocca. Rooms layer salvaged stone, vintage mirrors, and island antiques with made-to-measure pieces, so nothing feels like a catalog. Outside, the Bavella peaks do the decorating. It's the kind of place that looks restored rather than renovated, which, in Corsica, is harder than it sounds.

A narrow mountain road off the coast of Propriano deposits you at this luxury resort perched above the sea, far enough from anywhere that leaving feels like a conscious decision. Four pools, a Clarins spa with a hammam and an ice room, a private beach, and the hotel's own boat make a persuasive case for staying put. Rooms in the old Corsican villa lean white and ivory, with Carrara marble bathrooms and terraces facing the water. It holds a Michelin Key.

A turreted château perched at the tip of a peninsula, surrounded by harbor water on nearly every side. The hotel keeps fewer rooms than you'd expect for a castle of this vintage, split between the main house and outbuildings, each one facing the beach or the open sea. Inside, the décor skews understated and rustic rather than ancestral-portrait formal, which is a relief. There's a restaurant and bar on site, and the village is an easy walk when you want out.