The Best Places to Eat and Stay in Turkey

The terrace on the ninth floor of Swissôtel looks straight out over Izmir Bay, and at sunset the light does things that would embarrass a photographer. Scappi is a Mediterranean-Italian restaurant where the kitchen, partly open, runs a wood-fired pizza oven alongside house-made pasta and fresh local fish. The cooking leans into Aegean ingredients with an Italian hand. Book ahead; the terrace fills fast with people who clearly planned better than you did.

The restaurant sits inside a former monastery carved into a Cappadocian hillside, which sets a high bar for any meal before you've even ordered. Seki serves Anatolian and Mediterranean food in a room that feels warm rather than grandiose, with valley views that do most of the heavy lifting. Mezze, lamb, and a wine list running to some 300 labels give you plenty of reasons to linger well past a polite hour.

The wood-fired oven does a lot of the talking here, turning out Turkish cooking built around local producers whose goods you can also buy in the shop on your way out. The chef sources Trakya Kivircik lamb specifically to keep old Anatolian recipes from disappearing, and the içli köfte made with it is the thing to order. A spacious, modern restaurant a little outside the city center, with a menu that follows the seasons closely.

Floor-to-ceiling glass frames a sweep of hilly parkland on Istanbul's northern edge, and inside, soaring pillars and white linens set the tone for a Turkish restaurant that takes Anatolian traditions seriously. The menu is built for sharing and leans into regional heritage, with the chef finding contemporary angles on dolma and slow-developed flavors without turning it into a lecture. The Michelin Guide lists it among its selected restaurants.

Perched at the highest point in Göreme, this open-air restaurant sits on the terrace of Sultan Cave Suites with a view that makes the walk up feel completely incidental. The kitchen runs on traditional Anatolian cooking, with produce and even wine coming from the property's own garden. No reservations, so arriving before sunset is both practical and deeply advisable.

Small pots of cumin and oregano sit on every table, which tells you something about the philosophy here. This meat-focused grill in Urla started as a butcher shop and still sells cuts to take home, so the sourcing conversation is shorter than most. Mezze come first, then lamb cutlets or a rump steak marinated for a week in milk and herbs. The grilling is confident enough that the spice pots mostly go untouched.

An open-air restaurant on the Bodrum coast where olive trees frame the view and the day's catch arrives from the water just below. The kitchen runs Mediterranean and then keeps going, turning out ceviche, an original take on mezze, and crispy red mullet tempura alongside herbaceous salads and cocktails. Lounge music, sea air, and candlelight after dark give the whole thing a romantic lean that the setting does most of the work delivering.

A wood-fired kebab restaurant in Beşiktaş with ceilings high enough to make the place feel like a hall that just happens to serve lahmacun. The kitchen is open and the fire is very much the point, turning out kebabs and flatbreads with the kind of attention that shows in the finishing details. Good for a table of two or a group working through the menu together, which is the right way to approach it.

A spacious Turkish restaurant on Niğde's main boulevard, Sofram dims the lights after dark and turns distinctly convivial. The menu is long, the kitchen is focused on flavor over flair, and the staff make you feel at home with a warmth that isn't performed. Confit lamb neck with flatbread, tomato, and yoghurt is the kind of cooking that does the talking. Open every day, and there's even a corner for small children, because Turkish hospitality plans ahead.

The smoked salmon pizza on the menu is your first clue that Wolfgang Puck is running the kitchen. This rooftop restaurant sits atop the St. Regis in Nişantaşı, with terrace views over Istanbul that do most of the selling. The menu wanders freely through California, Italy, and Asia, sharing plates of duck spring rolls alongside modern sushi, held together by the kind of confidence that doesn't need to pick a lane.

The Bloody Mary here is made with raki, which tells you almost everything. This is the brasserie inside the St. Regis Nişantaşı, polished and unhurried, the kind of room where the menu wanders confidently from Turkish mezze to gyoza to Italian risotto without apologizing for it. The kebab with meatballs, grilled peppers, and a yogurt-butter sauce is the house signature, and portions land on the generous side of luxurious.

Perched in Ulus Park above the Bosphorus, this upscale restaurant looks like a location scout found it first. The menu roams from classic French to Asian-leaning dishes to sushi, with a wine list long enough to require strategy. The crowd dresses for it, and the service keeps pace. A window table is not optional, it's the whole argument for being here.

A vegan restaurant tucked inside a sports complex in Kuzguncuk, which is either the most unexpected address in Istanbul or a perfectly logical one depending on your outlook. The ornate, plant-covered exterior does the signaling before you're even through the door. The kitchen leans hard into zero-waste cooking and local sourcing, turning out creative vegan plates, mushroom ceviche among them. Cocktails are on the menu too, which never hurts.

The terrace table by the old stone well is the one to ask for at this modern Turkish restaurant tucked into the cobbled lanes of Alaçatı. The kitchen leans Aegean, pairing wild sea bass with cherries or frying veal liver with thyme and garlic, the kind of cooking where the ingredients do the heavy lifting and the chef steps back. Service is genuinely warm in a way that doesn't feel like a script.

Perched on a sprawling terrace above Istanbul's skyline, Terrazza Italia is the sit-down Italian restaurant inside Eataly at Zorlu Center, so the produce sourcing is rather well sorted. The kitchen leans into the classics with enough creativity to keep things interesting, vitello tonnato and handmade pasta among the familiar landmarks. The menu runs long, which is either reassuring or a mild commitment depending on your disposition.

The farm outside supplies the kitchen, the kitchen wastes nothing, and the resident dogs patrol the terrace as if they own it. This plant-forward restaurant in Silivri, a long drive west of central Istanbul, sits on a working estate and leans into it: poultry, vegetables, and herbs grown on-site, with estate wine to wash it all down. Kasseri tortellini and veal tongue pastrami give the menu just enough swagger to keep things interesting.

The vintage red tram rattles past on İstiklal below, but you take a lift to the fourth floor of a hotel and step into something closer to a Belle Époque fever dream. This intimate Mediterranean restaurant has the kind of decor that makes people lower their voices slightly. The chef works North Aegean ingredients into familiar forms, adding enough of a contemporary edge to keep things from feeling like a costume. The cocktail bar softens the landing.

A women's cooperative runs this small, easy-to-miss corner restaurant in Ürgüp, cooking the kind of food that doesn't have a recipe card because it never needed one. The creaking floors and red-and-white checked upholstery set the mood, and the open kitchen lets you watch manti being shaped and meatballs going into a deep tomato jus. The menu is short and the good stuff goes early, so arrive before the lunch rush or revise your expectations.

On the seventh floor of a Beyoğlu hotel, this rooftop restaurant trades on a panorama of Istanbul that makes it hard to focus on the menu, which would be a shame. The kitchen leans Mediterranean with a Turkish lean-back, braising and slow-cooking its way through bold flavors. A cocktail bar keeps things going after dinner for anyone unwilling to surrender the view just yet.

Marble columns frame a straight-on view of the Bosphorus inside Çırağan Palace, which sets the stage before anyone has touched the menu. This is a formal Ottoman dining room where the kitchen pulls from centuries of culinary tradition and plates it with fine-dining precision, think fermented milk quenelles alongside beef fillet, or pine nut mashed potatoes done with genuine care. The crowd tends toward special occasions, and the room obliges.

The top floor of The Marmara Hotel earns its keep: from the dining room you can take in Bodrum's castle, its rooftops, the Aegean, and on a clear day a few Greek islands doing their best impression of a postcard. The restaurant is a modern Mediterranean spot where the kitchen leans on regional ingredients and old recipes, then applies a little polish. The house-made pasta and the baklava have apparently achieved legendary status among regulars.

Meals begin with complimentary mezze and sweet drinks before you've ordered anything, which tells you most of what you need to know about the priorities here. This halal Turkish restaurant sits on the first floor of a cave hotel, with views across the Göreme valley, and a menu that moves through the culinary traditions of Turkey and the broader Islamic world. Note the dress code: covered legs are required.

A converted olive oil mill on the Reşadiye peninsula, its stone bones intact and a garden spreading out beneath actual olive trees for open-air dining. The chef tends her own kitchen garden and has a particular fondness for the less-celebrated creatures of the Aegean, blue swimmer crab among them. The menu is modern Mediterranean with a strong regional pull, and the local wine list rewards a slow read.

A side-street restaurant off İstiklal Avenue that takes Turkish cooking seriously without taking itself too seriously. The kitchen works with vegetables and local produce to give familiar flavors a lighter touch, though nothing feels stripped down or timid. Ezine cheese, dried sour cherries, herb oils, Turkish wines: the pantry is proudly local. Come à la carte or let the set menu make the decisions for you.

Moored inside Yalıkavak Marina, where the yachts are roughly the size of apartment buildings, Zuma fits right in. The global izakaya chain's Bodrum outpost runs seasonally, trading contemporary Japanese small plates, robata-grilled fish, and sushi against views of the Aegean. The crowd arrives dressed for a party and tends to stay for cocktails at the bar, which is somewhat inevitable given the setting.

The sushi counter runs long enough that watching the chef work becomes its own entertainment at this sleek Japanese restaurant inside Istinye Park. Zuma's Istanbul outpost follows the same formula as its London and Dubai siblings: robata grill, tempura, sushi, and a room full of people who dressed for the occasion. The gyoza filled with beef, lamb, paprika, and lemongrass signals that the kitchen isn't treating tradition as a cage.

Two Ottoman-era mansions in upscale Sarıyer, far enough up the Bosphorus that the hotel runs its own boat to get you back to the city. The 45 rooms and suites are generous in size, blending contemporary design with the bones of the original buildings, and the spa is very much the point. There's also a Turkish restaurant, a Latin-Asian bar, and an all-day lounge for when the boat schedule feels too ambitious.

Stilted cabanas perched over the Aegean make the case for this contemporary seaside hotel before you've even unpacked. Aged driftwood tones keep the white-on-white look from tipping into blinding, and sea foam green accents do the rest. The spa and the Blu restaurant pull their weight, though the water views are doing most of the heavy lifting. The hotel's own beach is a free shuttle ride away, which feels very civilized once you're there.

Suites that open directly onto Gölköy Bay set the tone at this small, family-owned boutique hotel tucked among date palms and bougainvillea. Eighteen rooms keep things unhurried and unpretentious, white walls and parquet floors, with staff who remember returning guests by name. Lunch happens on the sand, dinner turns a little more considered, and the bar works with house-made syrups and whatever the market brought in that week.

A boutique hotel in Yalikavak that runs only May through October, which somehow makes arriving feel like a small coup. The four reasons in the name are serenity, design, quality, and attitude, a branding exercise that would be easy to roll your eyes at if the place weren't so genuinely low-key about it. Rooms run from pared-down to family-sized to a junior suite, and the whole thing is small enough that it never tips into resort anonymity.

Architect Mahmut Anlar designed the rooms as cylinders, so the floor-to-ceiling windows curve around olive groves and Cennet Bay rather than framing them in a flat rectangle. This boutique hotel on the secluded northern shore of the Bodrum Peninsula is part of The Stay, a Turkish art-forward group with a sustainability bent. Poured concrete floors, custom furnishings, a spa, a private beach club, and a rotating schedule of concerts and art events complete the picture.

A rocky Aegean cove is the foundation here, with a sprawling overwater terrace of daybeds, bars, and restaurants hovering above it like the world's most considered sun trap. This seasonal resort on the Bodrum peninsula runs on casual glamour, from the enormous spa to the DJ nights to the transport options, which include, without irony, helicopter and private jet. Rooms are cool stone and white linen, each with its own terrace looking out at the yacht-dotted blue.

Bodrum Castle sits close enough that you can squint at it from the pool while an Aegean breeze does the heavy lifting. This resort runs three restaurants at once: a shoreside club with live DJs, an upper-floor Italian room pulling from Piedmont and Tuscany, and a Pan-Asian bar above the cove. A Turkish hammam handles the rest. Loft Sea View suites come with marble floors, wide balconies, and one room where glass doors slide open to a plant-filled atrium.

A genuine abandoned village in the volcanic landscape of Cappadocia, restored into a boutique hotel where the ancient stonework does most of the decorating. Rough-hewn cave rooms have stone archways, subterranean cool, and, in the better ones, terraces with views of the famous rock chimneys. A few smaller rooms run dark and short on outdoor space, so springing for a suite is less an indulgence than a point of logic.

Literally carved into the volcanic tufa of Uçhisar, this small cave hotel sits high enough to put Cappadocia's fairy chimneys and rock-cut valleys at your feet. Rooms run from compact to arched suites with hammams and underfloor heating, which keeps the ancient geology from turning on you overnight. Hot air balloon rides over the landscape at dawn are easy to arrange, assuming you can leave the view from bed.

Rooms carved from volcanic tufa, kilim rugs on the floor, a working fireplace, and a pool positioned to catch the hot-air balloons drifting past at sunrise: Aza is a cave hotel that doesn't apologize for leaning into the drama. The family behind it has been building and running places like this in Göreme forever, and this is their most polished effort. Guests also have access to Seten, the family's fine-dining Anatolian restaurant next door.

Perched at the tip of its own mini-peninsula, this boutique hotel is built like a small village into a forested hillside, so the Aegean fills every view and the sprawl of the Bodrum Peninsula stays politely invisible. Modernist-leaning villas sit tucked among preserved trees, with a spa, a private beach, and four restaurants on site. It's open May through October, which for some guests becomes a calendar consideration rather than a footnote.

A small cave hotel carved into the tufa of Göreme, where the terrace happens to face the full sweep of valleys that the hot air balloon fleet rises over at dawn. Rooms have names like the Warehouse and the Barn, and each one has its own arrangement of stone arches, kilim rugs, and carved wooden furniture. Horseback rides through the vineyard valleys and ATV tours are arranged through the front desk, which saves you the usual faff.

Twelve suites organized around the zodiac, each hung with original art the owners collected over decades at auctions and private studios, from Turkish masters to a Botero. This boutique hotel on Torba Bay reads less like a hotel than the vacation home of someone with excellent taste and unlimited air miles. A private jetty, a silent pool, and a Turkish breakfast under a canopy make the art-gallery atmosphere feel surprisingly livable.

Guests arrive to Ottoman sherbets and Turkish delight, which sets the tone for this family-run cave hotel in Göreme operating under halal tourism principles. The suites are carved from the same volcanic rock that shapes the whole valley, some with private rock-cut pools or a Turkish bath. Breakfast is laid with homemade dishes while fairy chimneys fill the window. Most mornings, hot-air balloons drift past before you've finished your tea.

Twelve stone bungalows arranged in a circle on a clifftop above the Aegean, each with a private terrace pool aimed straight at the water. This is a boutique beach-club resort that doubles as a party venue with somewhere to sleep it off: sister to the famous Mykonos original, with the same minimalist-bohemian design, international DJs, and a nightly sunset ritual involving dancing under actual stars. Breakfast arrives at your door; by noon you've drifted down for mezze and sparkling wine anyway.

Carved into a terraced hillside above Göreme, this 35-room cave hotel is built from hefty limestone blocks rather than simply hollowed out, so the arches and columns feel deliberately made rather than accidentally ancient. Rooms range from doubles to suites roomy enough for copper soaking tubs. Balconies look out over the balloon-dotted Cappadocian sky, which is either romantic or a lot, depending on your disposition. The on-site restaurant serves Anatolian food; staff can arrange the obligatory aerial tour.

Over 200 works of art fill the lobby, spa, and pool deck of this MGallery resort on the Bodrum coast, chosen by a local architect as part of a coherent interior vision rather than an afterthought. Rooms are a short walk from Yalıkavak Marina, while the private beach, infinity pool, and a hammam at Mood Spa give you plenty of reasons to stay put. The restaurant has a serious kitchen behind it, with ties to a Michelin Guide-recommended Istanbul address.

Some rooms here are carved into limestone that was old before anyone thought to put a door on it, others are stone-walled structures perched high enough to look out over the surreal Cappadocian landscape. It's a hotel where the setting does most of the talking, though Nana Cappadocia, the on-site restaurant, keeps up with contemporary Turkish cooking and local wine. The concierge can arrange a hot air balloon over the valley, which is either a cliché or a revelation depending on the morning.

A cave hotel in Göreme where the village streets run straight through the property rather than stopping at the gate, which tells you everything about the philosophy here. Fifty rooms spread across stone houses and actual cave spaces, no two the same shape. The restaurant terrace looks directly at the fairy chimneys, and below ground there's a pool carved into rock under vaulted arches. Minimal interiors, on purpose, because the geology is already doing the work.

The wraparound rooftop terrace is visible from the waterfront long before you walk through the door, which is one way to make an entrance. This is a luxury boutique hotel in Izmir's Konak district, done in the crisp-edged, neutral-toned register of a good Italian urban property. Rooms come with rain showers and cotton-satin linens, the suites claim the top floor, and the lobby moonlights as a quiet bar and library when you need both at once.

Six parts Aegean panorama, the design formula here goes, and the 76 rooms, suites, and villas seem built to prove it. This contemporary beachfront resort outside Bodrum keeps things in earth tones and blonde wood so the water can do the talking, with private pools and tubs angled toward the view for anyone who needs a little more argument. Watersports, a gym, a beach club, and a restaurant handle the rest. Open May through mid-October.

Perched just above a private beach on İçmeler Bay, this 34-room adults-only boutique hotel trades the extravagance of the wider Bodrum scene for something quieter and more residential in feel. Every room has a sea view from its balcony or terrace, the pool is surrounded by water on three sides, and the spa runs a Turkish bath. The Michelin Guide has selected it among its hotels.

Rooms and suites carved directly into volcanic rock just west of Ürgüp, where Diptyque toiletries and solar-heated floors do their best to make you forget you're sleeping inside a cliff. The Rea Well-Being spa runs to hammam, sauna, and steam rooms, with a tea garden facing the valley. Above the hotel, the plateau opens onto fairy chimneys and vineyards, timed perfectly for sunrise when the hot-air balloons go up.

Stone homes and cave rooms carved into Cappadocia's soft volcanic rock make up this boutique hotel in quiet Ortahisar, just off a square dominated by a sedimentary formation riddled with ancient hideaways. No two rooms are alike, but all look out over the same otherworldly terrain, and the contrast between rough-hewn walls and goose-down bedding lands harder than you'd expect. Turkish marble bathrooms, a spa, and a lobby bar keep things comfortable between hot air balloon rides.

Twenty-nine rooms carved into the soft stone cliffs of Ürgüp, in Göreme National Park, where the neighborhood was already considered prime real estate back when its residents were collecting taxes for the emperor. This cave hotel keeps the interiors sparse on purpose, an elegant wooden bed and an occasional patterned rug doing the work that the warm carved-stone walls mostly handle on their own. Some rooms add deep stone bathtubs or fireplaces; the higher tiers get heated pools and private balconies with views of the rock chimneys at golden hour.

A seven-room boutique hotel tucked into Alaçatı's cobblestone lanes, built inside a 19th-century stone house that the Kestelli family has been quietly obsessing over for generations. Architect Hakan Ezer fitted the rooms around a flowering courtyard, pairing ebonized cabinetry with handwoven textiles and works by Turkish artists. The family's own farm supplies the kitchen, which is the kind of detail that sounds like marketing until you taste breakfast.

Ten rooms, all of them different, all of them maximalist in a mansion that spent part of its life as a Christian church. This boutique hotel in Ürgüp sits in Cappadocia's soft volcanic heartland, where the region's caves set a high bar for atmosphere, and Sacred House meets it without going underground. Bare stone walls, antiques everywhere, and a restored building old enough to feel medieval rather than decorated to look it.

Hot air balloons drift past the windows while you soak in a hammam carved out of volcanic rock. This all-suite cave hotel in Mustafapaşa takes the classic Cappadocian formula and leans into the ornate side of it, with fluted columns, antique-style furnishings, and hand-carved woodwork. Many suites add fireplaces or jetted tubs. The underground restaurant, all arches and polished stone, is the most polished room in the place.

Tafoni means the bird nests that crown Cappadocia's volcanic rock spires, which tells you both the inspiration and the ambition of this cave hotel in the village of Ortahisar. Suites are carved into the rock and original stone dwellings, each named for a different nest and none quite matching another: iron window grates uncovered during excavation, fireplaces, blue painted doors in some, marble Jacuzzis and custom chandeliers in others. The terraces and art gallery suggest this place skews palatial over cozy.

A townhouse hotel in one of the Aegean's most quietly charming coastal towns, Viento is run by a family with Greek roots who, thankfully, resisted the urge to paint everything white and blue. The historical bones of the house stay visible throughout, antique pieces sit comfortably alongside contemporary design, and the kitchen leans hard on local farms. The hosts will happily point you toward the windsurfing. No children under ten.

Biblos sits on a wilder stretch of the Çeşme Peninsula, five minutes outside Alaçati proper, facing a protected nature reserve rather than the town beach, which is actually the better trade. It's a boutique resort with traditional stone buildings that are thoroughly modern inside, rooms running to neutral tones and industrial metallics, and a spa that could occupy an entire afternoon if you let it. Three restaurants cover everything from poolside snacks to French brasserie dinners on a terrace.

A boutique resort on the Aegean coast where ancient Ionian ruins, including a Temple of Dionysus and a theater, spread across the peninsula just beyond the terrace. The 22 rooms run large and open toward the sea through floor-to-ceiling glass, with private balconies and a pier for direct water access. A restaurant, spa, tennis, padel, and watersports round things out, and the wine list goes further than the standard Turkish bottles.

The Bay of Güllük sits quietly off the northeast tip of the Bodrum Peninsula, and this 26-suite boutique hotel leans into that calm, with bay views from nearly every angle and a rooftop restaurant above the water. The rooms borrow from a groovy early-Seventies Italian film palette, cinnamon and tangerine swapped out by theme. The lounge bar opens onto a garden by the pool. Bodrum proper is an hour away, which is, depending on the week, either the problem or the point.

Ferida sits in a stone square inside the Fişekhane complex in Zeytinburnu, which sets the mood before you even sit down. It's a contemporary restaurant built around new Bosnian and Balkan cooking, with Neapolitan-style pizza reinterpreted through local instincts, dried meats and truffles doing the talking. The wine list is taken seriously, the service matches the room, and the whole thing feels more international than its address might suggest.

Steel beams, a glass facade, and long bare tables set the tone at this contemporary pizzeria in Ankara's Beytepe neighborhood, where the architecture makes as strong a statement as the dough. High-hydration, high-cornicione pies come in both classic Italian and locally inflected versions, and the kitchen offers tasting menus that walk you through the whole philosophy course by course. It ranked 53rd on 50 Top Pizza Europe, which in Turkey is not nothing.

A boutique hotel carved into a steep cliffside above Fethiye's marina, where the terraced architecture does most of the talking. Nineteen rooms step down the rock face, old salvaged beams and heavy stone built into a structure that's practically new, which gives the whole place an appealing identity crisis. Balconies look out over the Turquoise Coast, there's a hammam, a pool deck, and a private yacht if the budget runs that direction.

A resort on a sapphire bay outside Fethiye with thirty-seven pools, eleven restaurants, and a kids' club designed by Turkey's only child-focused architecture firm, complete with a robotics lab and a disco running until eleven. Adults have a child-free enclave. The breakfast buffet alone runs to fifteen kinds of olive. The Lycian Way hiking trail passes through the hills just above.

The rooms are pure white, every last surface, and the effect somehow avoids being clinical through disciplined lighting and a few strategic hits of color. This cliff-side resort on Antalya's south coast pairs that boutique aesthetic with full megahotel infrastructure, including a pool and spa complex, beach club, tennis, and a kids' club. The restaurant goes full red, as if to get the argument out of the way early. Families and the ultra-hip crowd coexist without apparent tension.

Hadrian's Gate is visible from the garden where breakfast arrives each morning, which sets the tone for this fourteen-room boutique hotel tucked just inside Antalya's old city walls. No two rooms are alike: some have rough stone walls, others lean sleeker and more urban, but each one mixes antique objects with contemporary design in a way that feels considered rather than curated. The same garden turns to cocktails by evening.

A beachfront resort on the Turkish Riviera with enough pools, restaurants, and bars to make the ruins at Perge feel like a detour you'll get to tomorrow. The dining spans traditional Turkish to outdoor BBQ, with cocktail bars, two pool bars, a beach club, and a nightclub handling the evenings. Add a spa, tennis courts, and an aquapark, and leaving the property starts to feel like a logistical problem nobody asked for.

Eight rooms in a timber-and-stone chalet lodge, parked at 900 meters in the cedar and pine forests above Antalya, with verandas that frame an unbroken drop to the Mediterranean. The Lycian Way runs nearby, ancient Phaselis is a short drive, and the waterfalls are free. Evenings, the in-house restaurant called The Rabbit Hole runs a daily tasting menu built around whatever the land and sea produced that morning, with a minimum-waste kitchen behind it.

A boutique hotel in a 19th-century Aegean mansion on Cunda Island, where the walls have been through enough to write a memoir. The building once doubled as a wartime bakery, and the family rented rooms long before anyone called it hospitality. Restored now as a protected monument, it sits on Cumhuriyet Caddesi with upper rooms opening onto sea-view balconies. The kind of small hotel that makes you feel like you've found something the guidebooks keep almost mentioning.